Time for suspension upgrades.

Well, now that I've got the parts on order to fix my blown head gasket... I've saved a few dollars by not upgrading the engine, so I'm turning to the suspension.

Here is a list of what I'm going for, however I'm undecided on the spring/damper and sway bar combination.

BMR Tubular K-Member
Global West Upper Control Arm
Global West Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearing Kit
Global West Trac-Link
Kenny Brown SFC
Wolfe Cage/Autopower Cage modified a bit...
home brewed aluminum lower control arms w/rod ends
Rebuilt 10 bolt with T2R rear end

Now, as far as the springs and dampers go, I don't mind a harsh ride, I would accept as harsh a ride as my 4.5 ton F550's with no load going down the road, bone jarring to some, but acceptable to me. I would also like to lower the c of g as much as possible, maybe 2" front to rear, too low?

The type of racing I will be doing is mostly open track events, high speed tracks, stuff like that. I'm not worried about hooking up @ the track at all.

The car has a target weight of about 3200lbs after a slew of other modifications.

Any help would be appreciated... thanks a ton!

A couple thoughts...

Most folks would consider a 2" drop more than you'd want. You need room for suspension travel, and 2" drop leaves you hardly any. 1" is more normal for the track.

I'd pass on the BMR k-member. I don't know anyone using it on the track, and I certainly am not under the impression that it's been built and tested to sustain the stress of the track.

You might be able to pass on the subframes if you're putting in a cage. Could save a couple bux and help you get to that 3200lb number.

I presume when you say "I'm not worried about hooking up at the track" you mean the drag strip, right?

Good luck with the car,
Dave

Originally posted by LPEdave
A couple thoughts...

Most folks would consider a 2" drop more than you'd want. You need room for suspension travel, and 2" drop leaves you hardly any. 1" is more normal for the track.

I'd pass on the BMR k-member. I don't know anyone using it on the track, and I certainly am not under the impression that it's been built and tested to sustain the stress of the track.

You might be able to pass on the subframes if you're putting in a cage. Could save a couple bux and help you get to that 3200lb number.

I presume when you say "I'm not worried about hooking up at the track" you mean the drag strip, right?

Good luck with the car,
Dave

Thanks for the reply, how much suspension travel is really needed though on the track. I know the GT/GTS/LMP car's use about maybe 1-2" of travel, of course they are dedicated race cars, but 2" is too much? Too much because of scraping, or too much due to lack of suspension travel. I don't know the factory travel, but if there's any info on 4th gens on the net as far as suspension design, please point me towards it.

What about modifiying the BMR unit with gussets and bracing to strengthen it some more.

And yes, I'm not worried about hooking up on the drag strip or from a straight line.

Call Sam Strano for the ultimate advice. It will be more than worth your while to take his advice. It will probably be the best phone call you'll ever make for you car. Go to www.stranoparts.com for the number. Tell them I sent you.

Will do Steve... thanks.

Have a look at my set-up for my '97 TA

http://geckoranch.com/cars/index.html

This works well although as you can see in the sig I went to a Strano Autox set-up with my front swaybar. That is too much bar for road race. I kept my 1LE bar for up front just in case I get the itch to take this car on track again.

Watch out for the "auto drift" and shifting at bad spots on the track. I have a shift kit in mine and at certain places you need to back off the gas a little so it does not upset the car.