Lashing valves with feeler gauge?

How is this done?

Do you just stick in the feeler between the rocker tip and valve stem and tighten? I assume it doesn't matter whether or not the lifter is at the base of the cam, since lash should be the same regardless of cam phasing.

I was going to do the old Exhaust-Open/Intake-Close, but since this is a solid roller, the feeler gauge should be more precise.

No. Gotta be on the heel of the cam when setting lash, not on the ramp or the nose. Every valve.

If you set the engine on TDC, compression stroke (not exhaust stroke) of #1 you can adjust both valves on that cylinder, Then turn the engine 90*clockwise, adjust #8, 90 more degrees and do #4, etc. through the entire firing order- 18436572, assuming this is an LT-1 or older motor. LS1s have a different firing order.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Sorry admins, I posted this in the wrong section!

Originally posted by Mullet Z28
How is this done?

Do you just stick in the feeler between the rocker tip and valve stem and tighten? I assume it doesn't matter whether or not the lifter is at the base of the cam, since lash should be the same regardless of cam phasing.

I was going to do the old Exhaust-Open/Intake-Close, but since this is a solid roller, the feeler gauge should be more precise.

Your correct if you adjust your valves using the EO/IC method. Adjust the valve that is closed and on the base circle or back side of the cam for each firing location.

For example what ever cylinder you choose makes no difference but lets say 1 cylinder when the exhaust is opening adjust the intake valve with the feeler gauge and so on with the theroy EO/IC. Just make sure the valve train is hot because the clearance wil be off if the valves adjusted cold and then they heat up. This EO/IC methode will work no matter if its a solid roller which would require the use of feeler gauges or flat tappet.

Good Luck,

It's pretty hard to get the engine hot if it's the first time you've set the lash.
Most cam manufacturers give you both hot and cold specs.

If they don't give you cold lash specs then just set it at the hot lash for initial startup/break-in. It doesn't move THAT much from cold to hot. Redo it later when you get it running reasonably well. Besides, it's gonna open up just a smide anyway when the fresh vavletrain gets broken in (maybe a half hour of run time).

If they don't give cold lash specs, just add .002 to each side. And going down the firing order is much faster than the other method. |

You know that with the feeler gauge in between valve and rocker, you don't actually tighten the lock, just snug it until you feel light tension between the two. Then lock it, and check with feeler again to make sure you didn't miss it.