Cross drilled roters?

where is the best place to buy them for?

KVR makes cheap cross drilled replacements in stock size. I have their rotors and pads. They seem to be good and the rotors were $150 i believe for both(silver zinc coating on em too) and the pads were $50 or so. Fasttoys.com did a GP a long time ago and that's probably the only reason I got them. Goodluck

best or cheapest...?

best and cheapest are blank rotors.

Cross drilled rotors will significanly DEMINISH braking capabilities

so will those rotors rust like stock ones???

Or do I have to get that cadmium coating?

i never noticed any less............or more. more or less looks. the most gain i've recieved have been from a good set of pads and braided line on the stock system which worked very well for the street. that is until i put baers on the car and now i worry about the people behind me being able to stop in time. :D

i just got 00 vette rims and im just looking for something a little better looking than the rusty oll stock ones.

just pick up some stock replacement zinc coated versions.....

i'd say get the eradispeeds from baer but i'm sure that's more then you want to spend.

those things are seet but a little pricy.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=165879&highlight=rotors

Trey, for the love of God, shaddup.:p
He didn't ask anyones opinion on whether solid or crossdrilled were better. He asked what the best/cheapest CROSSDRILLED rotors were.

I happen to have crossdrilled and slotted rotors on my car, and I would be willing to bet you they stop a lot better than the brakes on your car. I doubt 99% of the people on here would ever notice the performance difference between solid and drilled anyway. We arent Indy racing or anything......and solid rotors are ugly, crossdrilled = :bow:

dont the cross drilled rotors also reduce rotating mass? wonder how much lighter a crossdrilled and sloted rotor is then its stock counterpart?

i can tell you this much.....

my baer 13" eradispeed cross drilled/slotted/zinc two piece rotors are 5lbs lighter then my stock crossdrilled/slotted gm performance counterpart and almost 7lbs lighter then the oem version.

take a 7lb weight and swing it around on a rope....now multiply that times how ever many you put on your car. 28lbs of rotational mass is quite a bit!

:D

Originally posted by kandied91z
i can tell you this much.....

my baer 13" eradispeed cross drilled/slotted/zinc two piece rotors are 5lbs lighter then my stock crossdrilled/slotted gm performance counterpart and almost 7lbs lighter then the oem version.

take a 7lb weight and swing it around on a rope....now multiply that times how ever many you put on your car. 28lbs of rotational mass is quite a bit!

:D

thats also 28 less pounds of mass to aborb heat.

And dont eradispeeds have aluminum hats? that might exlplain it more than the holes ;)

do they work...................yes. enough said. :D

and yes they have aluminum hats which is the main reason.

:)

kandied
what did you buy for the baer brakes? just calipers? rotors?
dual pistons? how much and where did you get them? i really need to upgrade soon.

thanks,
mike

Originally posted by kandied91z
do they work...................yes. enough said. :D

and yes they have aluminum hats which is the main reason.

:)

its not because they are cross drilled then :p

I am curious, if cross drilling them just hurts the performance...then why do they offer it? Thats like a company offering a more restrictive intake, it just doesn't make sense. :confused:

Originally posted by 91Bird305
I am curious, if cross drilling them just hurts the performance...then why do they offer it? Thats like a company offering a more restrictive intake, it just doesn't make sense. :confused:

but what if the intake had bling;)

kinda like a spoiler, slows you down. speeds 6 sec cars up.


..they were usefull back in the day when pads outgased

Originally posted by 91Bird305
I am curious, if cross drilling them just hurts the performance...then why do they offer it? Thats like a company offering a more restrictive intake, it just doesn't make sense. :confused:

Because they look good, and contrary to Treys constant drilling of his theory, they don't hurt performance badly.
I have tried and tried to get my brakes to fade(multiple 100mph+ panic stops in a row), and it just dosent happen. I could still put my passenger into my windshield after heating the brakes if they werent buckled in. People also like to talk about the stress fractures crossdrilled brakes get.....go look at solid rotors, they get em to. The only downside I can see to crossdrilling is a possible fractional loss of stopping distance, most likely something you would never notice.

Also not Trey, that Jeff said the oem rotors still weigh 2 more lbs than the crossdrilled ones, 2 lbs of unsprung weigh is still fairly signifigant

Originally posted by ROADRAGE
Because they look good, and contrary to Treys constant drilling of his theory, they don't hurt performance badly.
I have tried and tried to get my brakes to fade(multiple 100mph+ panic stops in a row), and it just dosent happen. I could still put my passenger into my windshield after heating the brakes if they werent buckled in. People also like to talk about the stress fractures crossdrilled brakes get.....go look at solid rotors, they get em to. The only downside I can see to crossdrilling is a possible fractional loss of stopping distance, most likely something you would never notice.

Also not Trey, that Jeff said the oem rotors still weigh 2 more lbs than the crossdrilled ones, 2 lbs of unsprung weigh is still fairly signifigant

thats 8 lbs of unsprun weight. Pretty insignficant.

How many 100-0 stops did you do? At work 50+ stops would absolutely TEAR up a rotor beyond belief.

You have MUCH larger rotors with a MUCH greater thermal capacity.

put the pass through the window? how does that explain heat fade or not. Fade is independant of caliper strength. Heat fade will occur way after the initial "stomp"

The biggest problem IMHO is spending money to get less.

Anyone want to pay for "cool blue" TPI styple intakes for your LS1?

Cross drilling is MUCH more likely to create fractures. I dont feel I have enough knowlege in metalicurgy to explain it, but it was explained to me. Bad idea.

I love it when people try to generalize non-relative issues.

FACTS: Pay more, stop worse, weaker.

Originally posted by TreySpeed
thats 8 lbs of unsprun weight. Pretty insignficant.

All unsprung weight is significant


How many 100-0 stops did you do? At work 50+ stops would absolutely TEAR up a rotor beyond belief.
around 10, plenty enough to see if they fade

You have MUCH larger rotors with a MUCH greater thermal capacity.

true


put the pass through the window? how does that explain heat fade or not. Fade is independant of caliper strength. Heat fade will occur way after the initial "stomp"

Have you ever been in a car when the brakes go away? There IS no initial stomp, caliper strength or no, when the brakes completely fade, there is no initial anything except panic

The biggest problem IMHO is spending money to get less.
Anyone want to pay for "cool blue" TPI styple intakes for your LS1?

There isnt much cost invloved in stock size crossdrilled rotors, and using them isn't going to hurt the performance in most situations. Believe it or not, some people like to make the car look good to(like a non-functional big block camaro hood ;)

Cross drilling is MUCH more likely to create fractures. I dont feel I have enough knowlege in metalicurgy to explain it, but it was explained to me. Bad idea.

I am no metalurgist either, but I do know I have yet to see anyone with crossdrilled rotors that have anymore fractures than a solid rotor.

I love it when people try to generalize non-relative issues.

It's almost is bad as when people ask where to get something and people start spouting off about how they don't like the thing even thought an opinion was never asked for


FACTS: Pay more, stop worse, weaker. ;)

Pay a tiny bit more, stop a couple inches later, a hair weaker, look much better

for my setup it was a no brainer.....very cost effective, stops unbelievable and looks even better.

there were no disadvantages to the setup i purchased. one of the best mods i put on the car.

as far as where to get them. detroit speedworks has pretty good prices on 4thgen equipment and you have someone local to deal with. if you want to save even more do a search on the internet. there are quite a few places that offer pretty great deals.

Originally posted by ROADRAGE
All unsprung weight is significant

why do you have center caps and valve caps on your wheels?


around 10, plenty enough to see if they fade

0-100 is much easier to 50-0-50-0, which is coincidentally more of a real world situation


true

glad we agree



Have you ever been in a car when the brakes go away? There IS no initial stomp, caliper strength or no, when the brakes completely fade, there is no initial anything except panic

This will come on a road coarse or somethng of that nature. when doing 100-0-100, but the time you get the rotors cooled and walah, no heat fade- well for the first few seconds at least. With your brakes that are so huge, this is even more so the case.


There isnt much cost invloved in stock size crossdrilled rotors, and using them isn't going to hurt the performance in most situations. Believe it or not, some people like to make the car look good to(like a non-functional big block camaro hood ;)


That hood saved me $100. Stock GM hood was $450. this was $350. Its also lighter.

I am no metalurgist either, but I do know I have yet to see anyone with crossdrilled rotors that have anymore fractures than a solid rotor.

Look harder


It's almost is bad as when people ask where to get something and people start spouting off about how they don't like the thing even thought an opinion was never asked for

I'm sure he appreciates the input given here



Pay a tiny bit more, stop a couple inches later, a hair weaker, look much better
case and point.

all i know is i have to worry more about the guy behind me then if i'm going to stop in time....it can get pretty scarry. :eek:

definately nice to know you can stop in just about any situation.

:)

why do you have center caps and valve caps on your wheels?

same reason I have 18" wheels....looks




0-100 is much easier to 50-0-50-0, which is coincidentally more of a real world situation

In the real world you would never be aware of the difference between drilled and solid either. Make up your mind, we talking about max performance or not?



This will come on a road coarse or somethng of that nature. when doing 100-0-100, but the time you get the rotors cooled and walah, no heat fade- well for the first few seconds at least. With your brakes that are so huge, this is even more so the case.

See last rebuttal




That hood saved me $100. Stock GM hood was $450. this was $350. Its also lighter.

How much was paint and finishing? Regardless of how much it cost, you bought it for looks, you and I both know that.



Look harder

I have, when I started to see the tiny fracures in mine(2 years ago, and they are still the same size now as they were then). I called Baer to bitch. He told me that if I could find any ANY rotors with the same milage as mine had that didnt have comparable fractures, he would replace mine with 14" eradispeeds. Trust me, I looked hard.

case and point.

When you make one, i'll let you know:p

Originally posted by ROADRAGE


why do you have center caps and valve caps on your wheels?

same reason I have 18" wheels....looks




0-100 is much easier to 50-0-50-0, which is coincidentally more of a real world situation

In the real world you would never be aware of the difference between drilled and solid either. Make up your mind, we talking about max performance or not?



This will come on a road coarse or somethng of that nature. when doing 100-0-100, but the time you get the rotors cooled and walah, no heat fade- well for the first few seconds at least. With your brakes that are so huge, this is even more so the case.

See last rebuttal




That hood saved me $100. Stock GM hood was $450. this was $350. Its also lighter.

How much was paint and finishing? Regardless of how much it cost, you bought it for looks, you and I both know that.



Look harder

I have, when I started to see the tiny fracures in mine(2 years ago, and they are still the same size now as they were then). I called Baer to bitch. He told me that if I could find any ANY rotors with the same milage as mine had that didnt have comparable fractures, he would replace mine with 14" eradispeeds. Trust me, I looked hard.

case and point.

When you make one, i'll let you know:p

Eric, you are instant on using generalizations. I worked at TRW and saw the data first hand. Rotor mass makes a big differance. Your ass is not a measuring device. I would love to know what justifications you have other than "i threw my passanger out the window" and "its almost the same says my ass"

If you want to stop, this is a good time to close your mouth and open your eyes/ears. I wrote a 3 or 4 page write up with justifications. If you want bling- go for it. If you want to stop, let me know.:p

Originally posted by ROADRAGE
I am no metalurgist either, but I do know I have yet to see anyone with crossdrilled rotors that have anymore fractures than a solid rotor.

OK, I'll only make one comment here. No way am I ever putting cross drilled brakes on my race car unless they're cast in like the Porsche rotors. Huge mistake for safety on a road course. They WILL crack faster than a solid rotor. You're just not seeing it for the street and almost certainly never will unless you drive so dangerously that I'd rather not be around while you're on the road.

Only 2 advantages to a cross drilled rotor for racing:

1) Less unsprung weight - get it another way that's safer.
2) Allows water to evacuate braking surface in rainy conditions. I'd rather run slotted rotors if I want to run a specific braking setup for the rain.

I'll leave it at that since this is not the right place to debate this. If anyone reading this really wants to know the background behind my statements do some searches on ls1.com in the autox/rr forum, or here in the same forum, or http://corner-carvers.com/forums/index.php etc. The list is endless.

Originally posted by 94bird
OK, I'll only make one comment here. No way am I ever putting cross drilled brakes on my race car unless they're cast in like the Porsche rotors. Huge mistake for safety on a road course. They WILL crack faster than a solid rotor. You're just not seeing it for the street and almost certainly never will unless you drive so dangerously that I'd rather not be around while you're on the road.

Only 2 advantages to a cross drilled rotor for racing:

1) Less unsprung weight - get it another way that's safer.
2) Allows water to evacuate braking surface in rainy conditions. I'd rather run slotted rotors if I want to run a specific braking setup for the rain.

I'll leave it at that since this is not the right place to debate this. If anyone reading this really wants to know the background behind my statements do some searches on ls1.com in the autox/rr forum, or here in the same forum, or http://corner-carvers.com/forums/index.php etc. The list is endless.

Mike,
I've wondered about water-
how long will water last on those rotors?
after normal driving if I hose my rotors after normal driving the water instantly boils off. Also, Under such wet conditions, you are really limited by ground : tire traction so you cant brake that hard anyway.

Originally posted by TreySpeed
Eric, you are instant on using generalizations. I worked at TRW and saw the data first hand. Rotor mass makes a big differance. Your ass is not a measuring device. I would love to know what justifications you have other than "i threw my passanger out the window" and "its almost the same says my ass"

If you want to stop, this is a good time to close your mouth and open your eyes/ears. I wrote a 3 or 4 page write up with justifications. If you want bling- go for it. If you want to stop, let me know.:p

Trey, you are insistant on making it seem like crossdrilled rotors are the worst thing to ever hit the earth. On 99.9 % of the cars with crossdrilled rotors in the world, there is going to never be a time when the owner says "damn these crossdrilled rotors, I woulda been much better off with the increased performance of a solid rotor"

Have you ever looked into something a little more important to rant about?

did i ever tell you guys how much i love my rotors..................man i know it's late but i'm going out to the garage just to see them again!















o'yeah, they look nice! :cool:

:p

Originally posted by ROADRAGE
Trey, you are insistant on making it seem like crossdrilled rotors are the worst thing to ever hit the earth. On 99.9 % of the cars with crossdrilled rotors in the world, there is going to never be a time when the owner says "damn these crossdrilled rotors, I woulda been much better off with the increased performance of a solid rotor"

Have you ever looked into something a little more important to rant about?
Id feel pretty damn stupid paying to decrease peformance and longevity.

Looks like eric has his mad face on..
just out of pure curriousity did you ever conduct a test using cross drilled vs slotted rotors? (rotor slots vs blank being the only variable, same calipers, same size, same wheels, same day, same weather)

If so, what were the measured results (measure of standard use. Metric or standard will be both be acceptable. I can throw my passanger out the window is not)

If not, then how can you state that the differance is negligable.

I have seen first hand data of rotor thickness/mass vs coning effects/cracking and other less desirable effects.

I have seen performance data of increased rotor mass.

I have spoken to many who are FAR more qualified than yourself about the issue. All but one agreed, and that one said he was undecided.

Baer and Willwood also agree with me.

quoted directly from wilwood's website

Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.

[boondock saints] I'll take an Egg Bagel with creamcheese. Coffee, light sugar no cream [/boondock saints]

Trey was a janitor at a brake place. Listen to him.

If people felt stupid for buying something that decreased performance, I am betting 1/2 the people on the board would feel stupid. Bigger heavier wheels for example.

Anyway, once again, you seem to be missing the point. I don't need to do extensive research to know that my brakes work, and have worked fine for over 2 years with the original rotors. Jeff has no complaints about his(although I am pretty sure I abuse mine much more frequently). I haven't heard many(actually any, but I am sure there are a few out there) complaints about stock size crossdrilled/slotted rotors. You can talk about how bad they decrease performance all you want, but until you have done extended research, you are no more qualified to preach than anyone.

Not one person here has argued that crossdrillled rotors work as well as solid, including myself. I will however continue to say that 99% of the drivers that switch from solid to drilled will never feel a difference. And just so you know, I did own a GTA that I went from solid to drilled. and once again, there was no noticable difference.

I know i know, research that someone a work told me about say that.......

Originally posted by ROADRAGE

I did own a GTA that I went from solid to drilled. and once again, there was no noticable difference.


Your ass is not a dyno nor a tape measure.

I've seen the results first hand in a more accepted unit of measure (meters).

Originally posted by TreySpeed
Your ass is not a dyno nor a tape measure.

I've seen the results first hand in a more accepted unit of measure (meters).

Although my ass can tell if there is a large difference, much like acceleration. You can feel + and - g forces. I can damn sure feel a few .10ths on acceleration, do you not think you are capable of feeling the same deceleration?

Once again, negligible difference, nothing noticable.

Hey Trey we get packages of stuff from you all the time. I work at Nisshinbo Automotive in the testing department. At least I think most of our rotors come in TRW boxes. I know I've seen it somewhere at work.
Good stuff...

Originally posted by ltlhomer
Hey Trey we get packages of stuff from you all the time. I work at Nisshinbo Automotive in the testing department. At least I think most of our rotors come in TRW boxes. I know I've seen it somewhere at work.
Good stuff...

Get your a$$ outta our arguement you punk:D

BTW Trey, who in the hell did the welding on the headers and y pipe? If it was you, please refrain from ever welding again;)