Post your street/strip small-block combo

I'll start off with my combo:

1977 Z-28:

0.060"- over 400 small block, stamped-steel GM guided-rail rockers, Vortec heads with stock 1.94/1.50 valves (ported by me), RPM intake with modified Holley 750 vac. secondary, Holley Blue pump and regulator, 11:1 compression, 234/244/114 .488"/.510" lift Crane flat-tappet hydraulic cam, 1 3/4" ceramic coated long tube Hedman headers, dual 3" exhaust with race Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers, TH400 with 11" 2800 converter, 4.10 gears with spool, Moser race axles, CE 90/10 front and 50/50 rear drag shocks, welded through the floor custom made SFC's, 4130 8-point roll cage, Weld Pro Star 15x3/15x8 wheels, with 165R/15 front ties, BFG Drag Radials 275/60R/15 rear.

So far I've managed a best of 12.45 @ 109.66 with a 1.89 60'. Car is still not upshifting where it should - ground down the governor weights in the TH400 and its hitting 4900 RPM on the 1-2, 2-3 shift, left in drive. Going to grind some more weight off until I get a 5700-5900 RPM shift point. I also need a cowl hood for some cold air, like say Erik's. :D

Car weighs 3790-3810 lbs with me in it. My engine is fairly basic, and I'm hoping with more tweaks and better 60-foots, I can hit the 11.90's with this setup.

So - what is your combo? Would like to hear of others using a small block and what times you have achieved so far. Maybe pick up an idea or two along the way. ;)

Dave

1981 Z28. The set up is in my sig. I need to make a few more passes as I only have 4 on this combo and was shifting at 6500:eek: I think I can pick up a tenth or two with a more conservative upshift(6000-6200) as the car tends to run out of power at 6500.

Click on the link for the '81 Z28 in my sig, or my Dad's '73 as well for full details and specs.

The '81 ran a best of 14.2 @ 97 mph BREAKING DOWN:mad: (it ran WAY too lean at the track and wouldn't rev over ~4500 rpm, when it should have hit ~6200 rpm:rolleyes: ). However, on the street it kicked ass with the 383:bow:. I will always love that engine!;)

My Dad's Camaro ran 13.661 @ 103 mph, but only cut a best of a 2.2 60' time. Currently it has the !traction mod!:lol: (it needs Mickey Thomson E/T Streets BADLY!!!!:(). With the 350 and 4-speed it currently has, it's a fun setup for ripping around the streets (although it's not cammed for smooth, low-rpm running...........it really likes higher rpm's). We're hoping with better tires on the car, and on a cooler night than when it was 90 degrees and really humid, that the car will be capable of breaking into the 12's. If not the way it is right now though, at least once we put better heads along with roller rockers on the engine!:)

uhhh 350 4bolt main, performer RPM intake, holley street avenger carb, Crane cam (ad=284intake, 294exhaust, lift 498) virgin block, stock comp, and stock heads, hooker equal length headers, true dual, 2.5" flowmasters going to true dual 3" sh1tty trannys, and sh1tty rearend with 273s

ZZ430 clone - advertised as having 430hp/430ft lbs torque.

GM aluminum Fastburn heads

cam is .525" int and exh. 218 and 228 for duration with a 1.6:1 rocker

10:1 compression, forged crank, hyper pistons, pm rods

intake port matched to heads

edelbrock 750, straight out of the box and bolted on.

headman 1 3/4" headers (they shroud the exhaust ports :( )

Suspension is all factory spec, and slapper bars.

Right now I'm getting a nasty miss through the entire rpm range and having a hard time getting up to 6k rpm. I should be shifting at 6200ish, but can't quite get there.

12.95@107 with 2.0x 60' times on et streets :o (lol, I pull that on regular street tires) - being new to sticky tires, I was going waaay to easy on em. Next time I'll be much more aggressive.

--

I'm thinking about swapping the HOT cam for a Comp XR282HR and swapping the 1.6 rr's for 1.5's, either that or going for a custom grind that will work with the 1.6's. Similar lift, more duration. Hey, who needs mileage? :p :D

---

And yes, Dirt, when Duane makes a new hood for me, I'll sell ya the one currently on my car :) I hope ya like brown!

Originally posted by Erik
cam is .525" int and exh. 218 and 228 for duration

thats a HOT cam isn't it :think: :confused:

umm erik how much are those heads brand new??? there are a set 4 sale local in the buysell...

And yes, Dirt, when Duane makes a new hood for me, I'll sell ya the one currently on my car I hope ya like brown!

:D :D

Originally posted by talos
thats a HOT cam isn't it :think: :confused:

umm erik how much are those heads brand new??? there are a set 4 sale local in the buysell...

Yep, thats a HOT cam.

I think the heads go for ~$2500 new.

Originally posted by Erik
I hope ya like brown!

How could anyone not like brown?! :D:p

This is a good thread, though. It's giving me some ideas.... :thumb:

355 CID L98 Chev. ( 4.030" bore )
Aluminum Crane roller rockers
Speed Pro hardened pushrods, Comp Cams Rod Guides
World Products Sportsman II heads with 2.02/1.60 stainless steel valves
3 Angle Valve job and planed 0.010"
Edelbrock Torquer intake (match ported)
MSD Ignition, Blaster II coil, Accel 300+ wires, NGK UR-5 plugs (0.045" gap)
Holley 700 mech. secondary (modified)
Holley 120 Gph mechanical pump
~ 11:1 compression
Wiseco Hypereutectic pistons
Wheeler connecting rods
Comp Cams 292H Hydraulic Cam. 292', 0.501" lift, 110 LSA
Pete Jackson cam gear drive
1 3/4" long tube Edelbrock headers
Dual 2.25" exhaust with single chamber Dynomax mufflers
TH350 with 10" 2600 converter
3.73 gears with GM POSI
Competition Engineering adjustable shocks 90/10 front and 50/50 rear
Daytona street tires 255/60/15 rear.

Best on last motor was 13.2@105, 1.99 60', 3761 lbs. race weight
Previous Motor:
http://www.rudyhelds.com/Customer_Rides/80_Camaro_Z28.htm

The motor above is built for est. 50 HP over my last engine. Hoping
to hit high 12's on street tires and mid 12's on slicks.

best time 11.40@121


:eek: :eek: That's haulin'!

Dave

Originally posted by Dirt Reynolds
0.060"- over 400 small block


Any problems with overheating? You always hear about 60 over 400's being prone to running hot; I'd like to hear it from someone who actually runs one.

383 sbc
5.565" rods
scat crank
trw blower pistons 7.8 - 8:1 CR (around there)
6-71 blower @ 5psi for now
intake matched to heads
CompCAMS hydraulic cam
Dart Iron Eagle 215cc heads


havent really had all the bugs worked out. BG280 fuel pump went out, fixing to buy another one, suspension needs adjusting, need to hook up the line lock, replace 4.88 gears w/4.10's, never had a chance to use the t-brake (will try after fuel pump gets replaced).

Originally posted by BartonekDragRacing
383 sbc
5.565" rods
scat crank
trw blower pistons 7.8 - 8:1 CR (around there)
6-71 blower @ 5psi for now
intake matched to heads
CompCAMS hydraulic cam
Dart Iron Eagle 215cc heads


havent really had all the bugs worked out. BG280 fuel pump went out, fixing to buy another one, suspension needs adjusting, need to hook up the line lock, replace 4.88 gears w/4.10's, never had a chance to use the t-brake (will try after fuel pump gets replaced).

If you shelled out the $ for all that other high quality stuff, why did you use those lame short rods? :confused:

I shouldnt have run the 5.565 rods, but they're holding up good. At the time I didnt want to spend $600 or so on pistons that will work with a 5.7" rod combo. The stock rods will hold up for what I'm doing.

No matter though, I already purchased the next building blocks for a better 383.. eagle 5.7" 4340 rods, scat forged crank, j&e blower pistons and another .010 4 bolt 350 block. :)

btw, why did you put money in that lame 305? ;)

Originally posted by BartonekDragRacing
I shouldnt have run the 5.565 rods, but they're holding up good. At the time I didnt want to spend $600 or so on pistons that will work with a 5.7" rod combo. The stock rods will hold up for what I'm doing.

No matter though, I already purchased the next building blocks for a better 383.. eagle 5.7" 4340 rods, scat forged crank, j&e blower pistons and another .010 4 bolt 350 block. :)

btw, why did you put money in that lame 305? ;)

You got me :lol:

But Ive got a 400 block sitting outside, that has 6.0" bushed rods going in it, and a 3.875 crank. I dont mind spending big money on Ross pistons or something cause I need good ones that will stand up to a little nitrous anyway

And the 305 would probbaly move pretty good with a convertor. And if I had went with a more sensible cam than just the biggest one I could afford :o Even in its condition now it will take stock LT1s :thumb:

here is my hooptie....

1978 z28
350 .030 over
cast crank,good rods,KB slugs( I know its a time bomb)
TFS Heads with K motion springs
Lunati Solid roller 600/610 242/250 dur on a 106 lsa.
Vic Jr Intake.
Chuck Nuytten 825

Running super comps with a mandrel 2 1/2 in exhaust and 2 chamber flows. exhaust dumps after the mufflers.

6 point cage

manual Valve Th350 with a TCI 9" 4000 stall.

rear is a stock 8.5 with a spool,4.56's, c-clip elims,tubes welded,mosier axles and a set of custom ladder bars

Im running 2 Holley Blues one for engine side one for nitrous side.

car has been 10.97 with current setup on a 125 plate and 11.95 on the engine(that was in great air)

Ray

Originally posted by angel71rs
Any problems with overheating? You always hear about 60 over 400's being prone to running hot; I'd like to hear it from someone who actually runs one.

Angel - I have a huge 4-core custom rad with dual Flexalite electric fans and 160 degree thermostat. The car normally runs 178-185 degrees on a hot day in normal city driving. I am thinking of going with an Edelbrock Victor or Stewart aluminum water pump to save a few pounds and for additional cooling. I am also running over 11:1 compression to boot. The car runs great, and only gets over 200 degrees if it gets really hot out combined with heavy stop and go traffic. Otherwise, no real problems. So far, the engine has never overheated in even the worst summer heat (and this has been a year of record temps in Vancouver).

400's do tend to run a little warmer than a 350, but nothing like the horror stories some guys like to perpetuate about these engines. I just smiled when I was told I'd blow head gaskets, the engine would over heat, and so on. A buddy of mine ran a 413" small block years ago, and it lasted for over 2 years of daily driving (in the summer) and going to the strip on the weekends. He never blew a headgasket either.

The key to it all is to have a first-rate cooling system in the car before you install one of these engines. Think big-block cubes ina small block package, and design your cooling system around a big blocks needs, and I'd say you'll be just fine. :)

Dave

I shouldnt have run the 5.565 rods, but they're holding up good. At the time I didnt want to spend $600 or so on pistons that will work with a 5.7" rod combo. The stock rods will hold up for what I'm doing.


I too run the 5.565" stock rods. Some guys like to say they aren't any good - and I won't say they will take unlimited power - but I think they are better than what some guys may think. The one big advantage to using them is you do not need to run a small base-circle cam and/or grind the rod bolt bosses down on 3 or 4 rods as you do when you go to a 5.7-6.0" rod and use the 400's 3.75" stroke crank.

Dave

[i]Originally posted by Dirt Reynolds
I too run the 5.565" stock rods. Some guys like to say they aren't any good - and I won't say they will take unlimited power - but I think they are better than what some guys may think. The one big advantage to using them is you do not need to run a small base-circle cam and/or grind the rod bolt bosses down on 3 or 4 rods as you do when you go to a 5.7-6.0" rod and use the 400's 3.75" stroke crank.

Dave [/B]

yep. thats another reason I stuck w/5.565 's :)

too many people automatically discount 'em, but I've seen ALOT of all motor 383's running 5.565's in the low 12's, spinning up to 6500 rpm and held together just fine.

Yep - I think the key to longevity with the 400's and the 383 stock short-rod engines, is to keep the RPM's at 6500 max. For more RPM, I'd go with a good 5.7- 6.0" rod.

Heck if Joe Sherman can coax 604HP @ 6750 RPM out of a short-rod 400 with ported GM 292 heads, they can't be all that bad.

:)

Originally posted by Dirt Reynolds

I shouldnt have run the 5.565 rods, but they're holding up good. At the time I didnt want to spend $600 or so on pistons that will work with a 5.7" rod combo. The stock rods will hold up for what I'm doing.


I too run the 5.565" stock rods. Some guys like to say they aren't any good - and I won't say they will take unlimited power - but I think they are better than what some guys may think. The one big advantage to using them is you do not need to run a small base-circle cam and/or grind the rod bolt bosses down on 3 or 4 rods as you do when you go to a 5.7-6.0" rod and use the 400's 3.75" stroke crank.

Dave

Yea, but I wasnt really talking about them not being able to stand up to the power. Its just too short, the rod ratio sucks then. As if it werent bad enough on 383+s even with 5.7s. Who cares about a small circle base cam its like an extra $20.

My block I got bare anyway so I had to buy new rods, like I said Im going with the Eagle 6.0" 3d rods, cause they are bushed and already stroker clearanced.

Yea, but I wasnt really talking about them not being able to stand up to the power. Its just too short, the rod ratio sucks then. As if it werent bad enough on 383+s even with 5.7s. Who cares about a small circle base cam its like an extra $20.


A short rod motor pulls harder on the intake charge sooner than does a long rod motor; the primary difference (aside from sidewall loading) is the long rod dwells at TDC longer. I'm not going to argue about which is better - all I can tell you is from my experience with the 400's - and from others I know who run them - is the short rod issue is not really that big a deal. These things make a lot of power regardless of what rod length you use. As I posted earlier, if Joe Sherman can knock out 604HP with a short rod 400 and steel heads, they can't be all that bad.

As far as the small base circle issue, if a guy is on a budget and doesn't want to wait to have his cam ground special, the short rod 400 offers the ease of using any cam that might be on the shelf down at the local speed shop that would work for the application.

Just my .02

Dave

Originally posted by Dirt Reynolds
Yea, but I wasnt really talking about them not being able to stand up to the power. Its just too short, the rod ratio sucks then. As if it werent bad enough on 383+s even with 5.7s. Who cares about a small circle base cam its like an extra $20.


A short rod motor pulls harder on the intake charge sooner than does a long rod motor; the primary difference (aside from sidewall loading) is the long rod dwells at TDC longer. I'm not going to argue about which is better - all I can tell you is from my experience with the 400's - and from others I know who run them - is the short rod issue is not really that big a deal. These things make a lot of power regardless of what rod length you use. As I posted earlier, if Joe Sherman can knock out 604HP with a short rod 400 and steel heads, they can't be all that bad.

As far as the small base circle issue, if a guy is on a budget and doesn't want to wait to have his cam ground special, the short rod 400 offers the ease of using any cam that might be on the shelf down at the local speed shop that would work for the application.

Just my .02

Dave

The cams I was looking at were Herbert Roller cams, and they didnt say anything about having to wait for it to be ground special. But I didnt specifically ask about them yet so Im not gonna argue.

And I also agree that 5.565 rods are good for a guy on a budget. I mostly got into this because Bartonek had Dart heads, a blower, and all these lavish parts.....then stock short rods :lol:

And does this Joe Sherman have a website? Id like to read about that set-up

Dirt: did you know you can also buy 5.565" rods in 4340 ? hehehe...I didnt know that..

DarthIROC: unless you want me to tear into what you have and what little you know, I'd suggest you stop the bashing on my setup. :eek:

Originally posted by BartonekDragRacing
Dirt: did you know you can also buy 5.565" rods in 4340 ? hehehe...I didnt know that..

DarthIROC: unless you want me to tear into what you have and what little you know, I'd suggest you stop the bashing on my setup. :eek:

Im not bashing your set-up at all, I just thought it was odd. Most people go to 5.7's when they build a motor to the extent you did

But if you wanna compare small block IQs lets rock. :cool: But lets start tommorow, Im going to bed for tonight.

Edit: And if you meant tear into me about my 305 :lol: have fun, I built that motor a year or so ago when I didnt know nearly as much as I do now. Pretty soon Im gonna see how much No2 stock crank and rods, that 305 can handle :cool: The only thing I will regret losing are my speed pro pistons :(

Originally posted by DarthIROC
Pretty soon Im gonna see how much No2 stock crank and rods, that 305 can handle :cool: The only thing I will regret losing are my speed pro pistons :(

Just retard the timing and get enough additional fuel. My friend is running 100 shot on a cast-piston 1965 Mustang I6. :lol: Chevy High Performance got up to a 300 shot on a close-to-stock 350. In fact, the bottom end may have been stock, I can't remember. :think:

My cast cranked 350 has been together for 3 summers and turns 7000 every pass. Its made many many passes on a 150 shot. I know im running on barrowed time but that will change this winter.

And does this Joe Sherman have a website? Id like to read about that set-up.

Not that I know of. You must be fairly young if you don't know who he is. Joe has been around a long time. He was the very first guy to create the 383 engine combo, which was around 1978. At that time he worked for Edelbrock as an engine builder. Over the years, he - like noted engine builder extrordinaire, Dave Vizard - gained their stellar reps from coaxing enormous power out of budget engine combos.

As far as 604HP out of the short-rod 406 is concerned, that info came out of an old issue of Car Craft from years ago. As cool as that is though, Joe has improved on that a bit by getting over 600HP out of a 365" street small block, which was the engine that won him $75,000 in the 2002 Engine Masters competition put on by Popular Hotrodding Magazine.

Joe's ideas make for interesting reading. You can read in great detail about his winning engine here: Joe Sherman's 600+HP 365" street small block (http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/chevrolet/smallblock/0208PHRSherman/)

Happy reading. :)

Dirt: did you know you can also buy 5.565" rods in 4340 ? hehehe...I didnt know that..

Yep - I knew that. Manley sells forged 5.565" rods. I also just remembered, Mike Morgan's 10-second Nova which was featured in the April 1999 issue of Car Craft, runs these rods and makes 585HP @ 7000 RPM.

:)

Hey Dave,

I see you have electric fans on your 77. What make are they and do they keep it cool? Im still running a flex fan in my 78. I think I can pick up a few hp with electric fans and a electric water pump.

Ray

Dirt:

If I had only known this I would not have bought my next setup and just bought 4340 5.565" rods. :/

Oh, and I believe somewhere I have the Car Craft w/604hp from Joe Sherman's setup!! We can get stuff like this from our library...I just "forgot" to give it back. hahaha

Originally posted by JEDCamino
Just retard the timing and get enough additional fuel. My friend is running 100 shot on a cast-piston 1965 Mustang I6. :lol: Chevy High Performance got up to a 300 shot on a close-to-stock 350. In fact, the bottom end may have been stock, I can't remember. :think:

Fuel isnt an issue, I have started building up for my 421 project around te 305, I just installed a holley 130 GPH pump, and I have a mallory pressure regulator. Im goig to buy the kit that I was gonna use with my 400 block anyway, its a nitrous express atomizer kit adjustable from 125-300. I was gonna spray about 125=150 on the 421, but I think Ill just up it all the way and run it on the 305 to see what it will do.

The motor is uber fresh only about 100 miles on it with forged pistons and duramoly rings, so I think it will take th ebig shot at least for a while :)

Originally posted by BIGBADBOWTIE
Hey Dave,

I see you have electric fans on your 77. What make are they and do they keep it cool? Im still running a flex fan in my 78. I think I can pick up a few hp with electric fans and a electric water pump.

Ray

Ray - the fans are the dual Flexalite with integrated shroud setup. Very nice. Yes, they do a great job of keeping the engine cool. And they blow a ton of air when they are going at full steam. This setup also comes with the thermostatic control box. I have mine set to come on at 170 degrees, and I have a 160 thermostat. The other key here is the huge 4-core custom rad. I run distilled water and a bottle of Redline Water Wetter. With this setup, only on the very hottest summer days in the worst freeway traffic does it get above 200 degrees. I'm pretty happy overall with the Flexalite package.

:)

Dave

Dave:

that is the exact fan setup I have..but it doesnt keep my setup cool. I am going to buy a oil cooler in hopes of helping to keep mine cool :(

Is a 350 w/400 crank and the short rods actually a 383??? Just curious. I would think it would drop the cui a bit.

As for my set ups. Here are the 2 good ones I had while I had a SBC (70 SS 350). I've joined the LS1 ranks now.

What it came with when I bought it 12 years ago and duplicated for a rebuild: 4 bolt .030 350 block. Comp cams 292 mag... .501 lift I/E don't remember anymore spec on it. Weiand Team G, Holley 750 mech 2ndaries, holley blue pump, 292 angle plug heads (ported) 2.055 I, 1.65 E valves, 1.5 rockers, forged flat top TRW pistons, stock crank and rods and a HEI w/ accel coil. Very well built th 350 w/valve body work instead of shift kit, 10" converter and 12 bolt w/ 4.11 gears. Idiot before me welded the spider gears together....:rolleyes: Not a bad car for a 19 year old. :D Drove it daily and ran 12.90 right off the street shifting at 6000 RPM. The AC was still functional. Heads were a bit large for the cam or could have taken a larger cam, but I beat most things I raced. I later switched to a Mallory mechanical pump after I ate up 2 blue pumps. Didn't slow me down any either. Engine had more, but I wasn't very good at tuning.

2nd set up: Same components, different long block. Got a virgin bore 4 bolt 350 (scored it for $50 w/ stock pistons and rods, all machine work good) Ran the stock pistons and rods and a 305 crank. (Had to go cheap, married and both working our way through college at this time). Cam: Lunati Street master .507 lift I/E (don't remember lift @ .050) 108 * LSA and don't remember duration. Stock 186 68CC heads 1.94/ 1.50 valves. Low compression engine ran 13.36 on 87 octane. Not bad for a $800 long block. Loved the idle of this cam!!!

Last set up was done for efficiency and drivability and was based off the GM 330hp HO engine w/ a TCI sizzler converter, 3.08 posi w/ 4 wheel disk, 600 CFM Edelcrock POS on a Weiand Stealth intake, and same 186 heads. This was a high 14 sec slug. Took the fun out of driving the car.

Now I run mid 13's and get 30 mpg on the highway running 86 octane in my bone stock M6 00 SS .

Originally posted by Greed4Speed
Is a 350 w/400 crank and the short rods actually a 383??? Just curious. I would think it would drop the cui a bit.





displacement = pi * (bore / 2)2 * stroke * cylinders

Originally posted by BartonekDragRacing
displacement = pi * (bore / 2)2 * stroke * cylinders Actually the volume of a cylinder (i.e. displacement) is PI * R ^2 (squared) * length.

So the correct formula is PI(~3.1416) X (BORE/2) X (BORE/2) X STROKE X Number of Cylinders.

Originally posted by jg95z28
Actually the volume of a cylinder (i.e. displacement) is PI * R ^2 (squared) * length.

So the correct formula is PI(~3.1416) X (BORE/2) X (BORE/2) X STROKE X Number of Cylinders.


lol. you arrive at the same answer I do.

Only if its a 4-inch bore you do. Did you mean for your formula to be (bore/2) squared, or (bore/2) times 2?

It's not the same if you meant the latter and the bore is anything other than 4.000 inches.

try 0.030 over....

(3.1416)*(4.030/2)*(4.030/2)*3.50*8= 357.157

(3.1416)*(4.030/2)*2*3.50*8= 354.498

NOT THE SAME ANSWER.

:rolleyes:

Originally posted by jg95z28
Only if its a 4-inch bore you do. Did you mean for your formula to be (bore/2) squared, or (bore/2) times 2?

It's not the same if you meant the latter and the bore is anything other than 4.000 inches.

try 0.030 over....

(3.1416)*(4.030/2)*(4.030/2)*3.50*8= 357.157

(3.1416)*(4.030/2)*2*3.50*8= 354.498

NOT THE SAME ANSWER.

:rolleyes:

yes, i meant squared.

btw, I didnt come up with the formula, some website on google had it.. so if you want you can argue with him over the internet all day.. THANKS! LOL

or you can use..

BORE X BORE X STROKE X .7854 X # CYLINDERS

Originally posted by BartonekDragRacing
yes, and the second formula in your example is mine.. everyone knows a 350 .030 over is a 355...the bottom is correct, the above is not. LOL

btw, I didnt come up with the formula, some website on google had it.. so if you want you can argue with him over the internet all day.. THANKS! LOL WRONG AGAIN!

You simply CANNOT change math or physics to suit your fancy.

I threw that curve at you to test you. The standard stroke on a 350 is actually 3.48 inches NOT 3.5!

OOPS! :thumb:

Try it again...

(3.1416)*(4.030/2)*(4.030/2)*3.48*8= 355.116

(3.1416)*(4.030/2)*2*3.48*8= 352.472 WRONG! :p

The formula for calculating displacement is based upon the volume of the cylinder.

The volume of a cylinder is calculated by taking the cross sectional area of the cylinder (a circle) and multiplying it by its length.

The area of a circle is PI * RADIUS ^ 2 or PI * R * R

The radius of a cylinder is 1/2 its bore hense the formula for calculating discplacement:

Displacement = PI * (BORE/2) * (BORE/2) * STROKE * Number of Cylinders.

Sorry but its basic geometry not magic. Your version works on a standard 4-inch bore only because 4/2*2 = 4/2*4/2.

Don't argue with an engineer when it comes to math. You'll lose every time. :D

Hey no fair changing your answer! ;)

So we're now in agreement that I was correct? :D

1981 Z28
355ci. 11:1 compression

Dart Iron Eagles 215cc

Comp XE 284 .507/.510

Victor Jr, 750 D.P.

1 3/4" headers w/ 3" X-pipe and Spintech mufflers

CSI electric waterpump

Ramchargers dual electric fans

CE slapper bars, 90/10 shocks and Moroso Trick springs

8-point rollbar

8.5" 10 bolt with mini spool and 3.73 gears

Best time so far : 12.13 @ 109 w/ 1.65 60 ft.(n/a) 11.43 @ 116 w/ 1.58 60 ft. 150 shot


Short block Waitng to go in:

10.5:1 406
SRP forged pistons
5140 I-beam 6" rods(new)
8600N nitrated crank(new)
Comp Cams XE Solid roller .577/.583 248/254 duration @ .050


About the small base circle cam, I got mine straight from Competition Cams and it did not cost any extra.

OH my daily driver,
1981 Z28
355ci 9.5:1
TRW L2256 forged pistons
Eagle SIR 5.7 rods
Eagle cast/steel crank
Dart Iron Eagle 200cc
Crane 272 HMV cam .454/.480
Performer RPM
750 VAC. SEC.
TH350 w/ B&M 3000 holeshot
3.42 gears
12.97 @ 103:eek:

We were expecting this car to run in the 13.8-14.2 range

Originally posted by jg95z28
Hey no fair changing your answer! ;)

So we're now in agreement that I was correct? :D

LOL.. no, whoever had it on their website was incorrect.

Originally posted by BartonekDragRacing
LOL.. no, whoever had it on their website was incorrect. :lol: :thumb: