LS1 aluminum driveshaft?

Hi guys, are LS1 aluminum driveshafts a direct swap for 3rd gens?

I've looked for the 3rd gen driveshaft on ebay but they seem kind of scarce.... but theres a 4th gen on there all the time.

If its not a direct swap what has to be modified to make it fit on a 3rd gen?

thanks

Paul J.

A direct swap, either for a Auto or Manual. I would not pay over $150 max for a used 2 3/4 dia Aluminum LS1 Dr shaft.;) I paid $110 for a 3rd gen 1LE one.

Mine was out of a 99 TA, and yes its a direct swap. Got mine for $110

Is it really much of a pain to swap out (IE in labor costs)? I dont have access to a lift or anything right now, and I have no experience with driveshafts, so I wouldnt have a clue anyways.

If I were to get this shaft, what else should I make sure that I get with it?

The driveshaft is swapped with only 4 bolts. You dont need a lift you could easily do it in your drive way with a jack and jackstands, or drive on ramps. The swap shouldnt take more than 15 min. If you know how to use a wrench, you can change your driveshaft.

You may lose some fulid from the tranny end but its no big problem, just have some rags ready. So no big surprise when you see this.

I live at an apartment complex :(
But have at it, if you want to call them up and convince them to let me do it.

I dont have a jack anyways...

If thats the case, a good shop should only charge you one hour labor at the max for a install. Just check around for a good price.
;)

What are the benefits, really, of having a new driveshaft?

Unless you have a bad vibration problem around 80 MPH, the Pro & Con are a toss -up. One advantage for me was the light weight on the drive line. Otherwise no real SOTP feel with one.:confused: Save your money.;)

have a friend help you out.

I bought a Lingenfelter Driveshaft off of ebay for $190 (that included shipping) & it got my car a little lighter for racing.

it saves weight, reduces spool time, and reduces vibration. Doing it in your driveway would be a pain anyways because changing u joint without the proper tool is a pain.

Originally posted by doug791
it saves weight, reduces spool time, and reduces vibration. Doing it in your driveway would be a pain anyways because changing u joint without the proper tool is a pain.

didnt change U Joints in mine wait mine was already set up with Lingenfilter u Joints :D

Q: Will an aluminum shaft help my performance?

A: YES! It allows the engine and transmission to spool up faster due to less rotating mass. You will feel a difference. In addition an aluminum drive shaft has stricter production specifications and is alot more stable at higher speeds

Courtesy of www.thirdgen.org

Q: Will an aluminum shaft help my performance?

A: YES! It allows the engine and transmission to spool up faster due to less rotating mass. You will feel a difference. In addition an aluminum drive shaft has stricter production specifications and is alot more stable at higher speeds

Courtesy of www.thirdgen.org

i heard from a friend if you work your motor and your drive shaft is old you can snap it this is where im wonderinf if i should just change it to be safe with a heavy duty steeel one cause i plan on working up my 305 . or is it so that no matter how much work you put into it a 305 could never snap a driveshaft

It takes a LOT of power to break a driveshaft. I'd be surprised to see a street car do it.

An aluminum driveshaft is a good thing though. It's lighter which means less rotating mass in the driveline and the production tolerances are tighter which means better balance and less vibration at high speeds.

Maybe even better braking?

Do any of you guys use drivshaft loops? Or would that be overkill on a mild 305/350?

I dont since its not required until you run faster then 13s at the track but my husbands got one on his 4th gen.

Awesome, thanks for all the replys guys... I appreciate it.

Paul J.

a classmate back in the day let a chick drive his bronco 2 and she dumped the clutch and snaped the driveshaft just something i remember

LS1 guys snap them stock.

Just drive your car to an empty parking lot, put one side of the car up on the curb, slide under there and swap them out ;)

Originally posted by robvas
LS1 guys snap them stock.

Just drive your car to an empty parking lot, put one side of the car up on the curb, slide under there and swap them out ;)

Haha, thats a pretty good idea, I would have never thought of that.

Originally posted by robvas
LS1 guys snap them stock.

Just drive your car to an empty parking lot, put one side of the car up on the curb, slide under there and swap them out ;) thatd work fantastic until you realized when you were under the car that you brought the wrong sized ratchet to get the rear u joint clips off. PLUS you kind of have to spin the drive shaft around to get at all 4 clips so youd have to put it up there...take off the first bolt...get out...put it in drive...move the car 1 foot forward...get out do the next bolt...etc etc and same process for putting the new one in...now thatd be a no fun type job.

You mean you don't carry your whole toolbox in the car? ;)

You only have to spin the shaft once, get the bolts out two at a time.


Originally posted by doug791
thatd work fantastic until you realized when you were under the car that you brought the wrong sized ratchet to get the rear u joint clips off. PLUS you kind of have to spin the drive shaft around to get at all 4 clips so youd have to put it up there...take off the first bolt...get out...put it in drive...move the car 1 foot forward...get out do the next bolt...etc etc and same process for putting the new one in...now thatd be a no fun type job.

Traction breaks DS's... not just raw power.

Originally posted by steve10358
Traction breaks DS's... not just raw power.

Amen, I know a guy with what should be a 11 second 4 speed second gen...stock driveshaft...It won't hook so it won't break...2.0 60' no good.