Camshaft Question

Hey gang.

Here's the deal: While I prep the car, I want to begin my motor. For fun, I will throw a mild set of Iron Heads (it's what I have, and they have been cleaned up) on it with a hyd rol cam until I can get the car up to par to handle some afr's and a solid roller.

My question is this- I want to pound it with boost...
I realize the same cam that is best for 9psi isn't always the best cam for 15psi.

What should I be looking for as I start to do my research?
Would something like a 215/224 be good around 9psi, while 224/235 be fine for more? I am a bit confused here. :)

Thank you!

>Oh Rich he's got a good question for you ... and I'll ease drop too ;) .

Steve: I'd strongly advise you to try one of the following CC XE combos.

CC XE #3190/3192 on a 114LSA or CC XE #3192/3196 on a 116SLA. Both are proven cams for a blower car. 3190/3192 is 214/224 @ 0.050" and 3192/3196 is 224/236. Both are the "high lift" XE lobes. Don't have the specs in front of me for lift, but the valve lifts for these lobes (1.5 rocker ratio) are for the 3190/3192/3196 ~.540/.560/.585". I can post exact specs later.

If you decide to try one I can give you advice on springs as well.

Rich Krause

Those were roughly the durations I was looking for... but how do I pick? I know blowers can deal with a tame camshaft- but what am I to do? :)

Originally posted by steve10358
Those were roughly the durations I was looking for... but how do I pick? I know blowers can deal with a tame camshaft- but what am I to do? :)

Steve: I'd say the 224/236 unless you want it really tame. The 214/224 combo was what was in my car before, and now it's the 224/236. You can check it out in my car, though since mine's a stroker with a pretty odd setup, it'll only give you an idea.

Rich Krause

And you swapped heads at the same time too, correct?
Hmm. Might as well go bigger, cause I want the most violence one can pour out of a crappy set of heads... afterall, it's only temporary. :)

BTW Rich... I had a Macenudo last night at D'arcy McGhee's. It was the cherry flavor. Not as good as yours. Which flavor do you prefer.

Steve

Originally posted by steve10358
And you swapped heads at the same time too, correct?
Hmm. Might as well go bigger, cause I want the most violence one can pour out of a crappy set of heads... afterall, it's only temporary. :)

BTW Rich... I had a Macenudo last night at D'arcy McGhee's. It was the cherry flavor. Not as good as yours. Which flavor do you prefer.

Steve

I like the "robust" series or a maduro (dark wrapper). You should come over for a cigar sometime.

Get the 224/236, knowing your personality, you might think the 214/224 cam is too tame ;)

Rich

That's what I thought! But they were out of "Robust". I mean, fruity cigars? ack! lol

And yes, Violence = fun! So, I suppose 224/236 should do the ticket. Thanks Rich. Should have the motor next month, the way things are going. :)

Steve

Is the 116 Required for that cam.
I take it that compenstates for the increased duration to cut back on the overlap???????

Does the 116 make the bottom a little on the soft side? Better idle but a lower/slower to come on torque peak...............
Hmmmmmm.

Oh, and,
Should the adv be ground in or just installed +4???
Thanks

TTop

Originally posted by ToddR
Oh, and,
Should the adv be ground in or just installed +4???
Thanks

If it's an LT1, there in no practical way to install it other than "straight up".

Rich Krause

Can you advise on those springs for the high lift version of the xe 224/236 cam?? mine is on a 114lsa and its the low lift version. I want to change now to the high lift version... DO you think its better to go on a 116 or stay on the 114lsa? Where can I buy the high lift version of that cam?

Rich,
It's a carbed SB.........Ported stock heads.
114 or 116?
4 adv or have it ground in? What's the difference?
Thanks

Originally posted by ToddR
Rich,
It's a carbed SB.........Ported stock heads.
114 or 116?
4 adv or have it ground in? What's the difference?
Thanks

Good question. I would have it ground straight up and experiment with what works best as far as degreeing it in. The 116LSA is for a blower car only. Assuming yours is, that's exactly right. It's to decrease overlap.

Rich Krause

thanks,
It's blown.
I'm just stuck on the 114 or 116 lsa. Some people seem to have good results with a 112 nos cam???

Will the 116 make it to soggy at the bottom end. If I understand Vizards book correctly, won't the 116 make the torque curve more broad but peak later and be lower total than say a 108 grind??

I guess for $150 a cam I should just get two of different varieties and see what happens. Any thoughts?

Originally posted by ToddR
thanks,
It's blown.
I'm just stuck on the 114 or 116 lsa. Some people seem to have good results with a 112 nos cam???

Will the 116 make it to soggy at the bottom end. If I understand Vizards book correctly, won't the 116 make the torque curve more broad but peak later and be lower total than say a 108 grind??

I guess for $150 a cam I should just get two of different varieties and see what happens. Any thoughts?

Vizard was not writing about blower cars. The context was big cammed NA cars. Very different. Consider this: the stock LT1 cam is on a 117LSA. Does it feel "soggy" down low? I know mine doesn't (116LSA).

Where are you getting roller cams for $150? Count me in!

Rich Krause

Yeah me too...

Rich can you advise on teh springs for the High lift version of the XE 224/236?

Will the 987 work for 6300rpm? THanks

Thanks
It's a 904 tappet Dia. High Velocity Hydraulic flat tappet.
270/286 adv. 223/237@.050 .538/.571 w/1.6's
Non-GM Shhhhhhhh.........

Originally posted by ToddR
Thanks
It's a 904 tappet Dia. High Velocity Hydraulic flat tappet.
270/286 adv. 223/237@.050 .538/.571 w/1.6's
Non-GM Shhhhhhhh.........

OK, it's not a roller. Makes sense.

Rich Krause

Originally posted by The Highlander
Rich can you advise on teh springs for the High lift version of the XE 224/236?

Will the 987 work for 6300rpm? THanks

I'd get the #978 for 6,300rpm. The spring rate of the #987 is 344lb/in and it's too low, unless you have very light valve train components (valves, retainers, Al rockers). And even then, it might not be enough. #978 is 403lb/in and can handle more lift.

Rich Krause

Thanks.. WHere can I get them? 403 psi is a lot of pressure...

Originally posted by The Highlander
Thanks.. WHere can I get them? 403 psi is a lot of pressure...

403 lb/in is the spring rate. The open presure if installed atr 1.185" with ~350lb open pressure. This is on the high side for high mileage street use, but is within the typically qouted 350lb guideline.

Any place that deals with Comp can get them, pn 978-16 gets you a set.

Rich Krause

So I would be able to use the high lift version of that cam and the valve springs would be the only limiting factor. I have been wanting to order the cmotorsports 224/236 kit for a while now.

So the 978 will be able to handle the high lift? If so, I'm going with that cam on a 116 lsa. I was going to do the 114lsa but is the 116 a better choice for a street/strip car. It will eventually be stroker but I want to be able to still have some power down low.

I want to use that one on my stroker...

#978 should be good if the revs aren't sky high (over 6,300 or so).

Rich Krause

How much gain in flow and power, low, mid and top will this cam upgrade from the low lift version?? is it worth stepping up from the low lift version 114 lsa to the high lift version 116 lsa?? do you recommend it?

Originally posted by The Highlander
How much gain in flow and power, low, mid and top will this cam upgrade from the low lift version?? is it worth stepping up from the low lift version 114 lsa to the high lift version 116 lsa?? do you recommend it?

Not unless I was taking out the motor anyway. Not that huge a difference.

Rich Krause

I just recieved my 224/236 high-lift cam from Thunder Racing. I got mine on a 114 LSA with 0 degrees advance. Lift with 1.52 rockers is around .575"/.593". This is for a 383 with 8.3/1 compression, AFR 210's, and a T-trim (6.66/2.75) with the Vortech Aftercooler. I hope it works.

It was a custom-grind and cost around $230. Ask for David. They can also hook you up with a good set of valve springs for another $115, but you'll have to get somebody to check the installed height and get the right shims to install them properly. But that goes for anytime you change springs.

Mike