Bolt Ons Good Ones Bad Ones

I have a 01z-28 with the m6 is their anyone that can give me some information on good bolt ons and ones to stay away from. All information would be greatful thanks. I already have the slp lid and free ram air mod. and a xcelerator exhaust next mod is MAC Headers.

All bolt-ons seem to be good except for aftermarket MAF some people have problems. I would stay with stock MAF unless your make 450 hp +.

I'd have to agree about staying away from aftermarket MAF's, they are trouble.

Power mods are good, but don't forget about suspension. SFC's are MANDATORY, then there's a STB, LCA's, and relocation brackets. It just depends what kinda setup you want.

stay away from MAF's.

cold air, asp pulley are two good ones.

With the free ram air you already have CAI. In order to do this correctly, define how you use the car. What do you want it to do best? Handling and acceleration are two very different directions. Some mods help both areas but sometimes a mod can help acceleration and hurt handling and that goes both ways.

In my car (also an M6 LS1) I've focused more on cornering than acceleration. I autocross regularly and although I have drag raced a few times I found it rather boring. So getting a light weight front sway bar and a stiff thick rear sway bar won't be in my near future. Neither will Nitrous, drag radials or torque arm.

For better cornering I've added stiffer lowering springs, solid 35 mm front sway bar, adjustable PHB with rod ends, STB, and hope to put Bilsteins on it someday. Power mods are just a lid, FRA and a Diablosport Predator (The Pred is supposed to disable the CAGS too). I was going to get a set of Macs with ORY but after talking to several people (some run dyno shops and know first hand) decided to go with long tube headers. You will get a mild gain from the Macs but not what you would get with SLPs or Hookers for the same price. SLPs hang lower so I'm planning on getting the Hookers, also with ORY. That should do me for a while. Someday I'll probably get antsy and go for the cam upgrade.

Oh wait I forgot about the B&M Ripper shifter... And the black hood scoop decal... and the Camaro fillins... and the black tail panel...

Tell us what your goals are. Then you'll have a direction to go in. Until then you're pretty much just asking for people to post what mods they have done to their cars. Everybody has different ideas of how to make their car better.

shifter, gears, fast toys ram air, SFC, LCA,.....

shifter should be one of the first things you do in a 6 speed IMO... the stock hurst is a POS and if you dont have the hurst its even worse

gears will give make it seem like the engine is making more power, even though it isnt. they will give you a great increase for a modest amount of money. (500-600 installed around here) but they also increase the chance of grenading your rear end. you have to decide if thats a risk thats worth it for you. as a generaly rule, the deeper the gears, the more likely you will spit parts out... If you can afford it upgrade the rear end to a 12 bolt or 9 inch. this will pretty much solve the problem

Well I would like to get into the high 11's low 12's not to bad of a goal.

I tried to answer your PM but my reply was too long.


smokin00z28 wrote on 06-16-2003 09:45 PM:
I want to get into the the high 11's to low 12's. Can that be abtained with a head and cam pakage.


If you're shootin' for 11.7-12.3 why are you going with mid length headers? You need all you can get. You probably won't get there with the H/C combination alone. But that may be part of the combination you choose. There is always NOS. That will get you there in a hurry.

Go for good traction mods to get out of the hole better. If you increase power you may have a tendancy to blow your 60 foot times and run slower ETs due to less traction. This is exaggerated with the 6 speed since you control everything. With an auto you could just slap a 3,000 stall converter on and go. It would be consistantly fast run after run.

If it were my goal to run 11's I'd get:
Shifter
FTRA (or equivalent)
Heads
Cam
Maf
Smooth bellow
reprogramming of course
cut out
long tubes
drag tires
TA girdle
Adjustable torque arm
LCAs
LCA relocation brackets
Drag shocks
SFC's
Drive shaft loop
Big rear sway bar

That should get me there.

...Don't forget about the roll cage.

Originally posted by 2002Z28SSConv
If you're shootin' for 11.7-12.3 why are you going with mid length headers? You need all you can get. You probably won't get there with the H/C combination alone. But that may be part of the combination you choose. There is always NOS. That will get you there in a hurry.

Go for good traction mods to get out of the hole better. If you increase power you may have a tendancy to blow your 60 foot times and run slower ETs due to less traction. This is exaggerated with the 6 speed since you control everything. With an auto you could just slap a 3,000 stall converter on and go. It would be consistantly fast run after run.

If it were my goal to run 11's I'd get:
Shifter
FTRA (or equivalent)
Heads
Cam
Maf
Smooth bellow
reprogramming of course
cut out
long tubes
drag tires
TA girdle
Adjustable torque arm
LCAs
LCA relocation brackets
Drag shocks
SFC's
Drive shaft loop
Big rear sway bar

That should get me there.

...Don't forget about the roll cage.

I agree with your whole list except for the heads and cam part.
There are many stock internal guys running low 12s-high 11s.
I've run 12 teens with a totally stock motor.
If you can't hit 11s all bolt on SI then a cam alone will be plenty to put you over the top, so to speak:D

I'm trying for 11's with just bolt-on :confused:

I'm pretty sure on a good night I can hit 12.3's now, I'm going to put an ASP pully and a ported TB on shortly and then get it retuned.

Hopefully that will do it, maybe some weight reduction.


I've also did very well with the Pace LS-6 MAF, but that's up to you.