Amp Wire Length

Just a quick simple question, but how long for a stealthbox, should the wiring be to the back? I just don't want to end up short.

I've seen a lot out there in 17' or 20'? What do you guys have in yours?


Thanks in advance,
Mark

Are you wanting to run power wire all the way to the rear? Or are you talking about RCA's?

Power Wire...

The BIG 4 or 8 gauge stuff...and idk if there's anything else.

You are the expert...RallyRedTexan to the rescue!

haha

Mark

BTW...Received everything...excellent...thanks.

just a tip...always go on the long side. It's easier to cut the excess off than having to splice on to make it longer

Exactly, I'd go with the 4 gauge kit at www.knukonceptz.com it's a pretty decent kit at a great value. Should save you some money over the Stinger stuff.

From battery to that rear deck area..... I think the 17' would be about perfect, but just to be on the safe side.....

Knukonceptz is great. Also check out www.darvex.com and the best deal yet.....!!!!!.....This (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3027489917&category=4950) 1/0awg amp wiring kit from scala1 for $53!!!!!!!:eek: :eek:

Thanks for the links.

I was looking at the 4 gauge set on www.ikesound.com for $44 shipped to my door.

I was planning on trying to run the 8 gauge already in my car, but I'm hesitant about it since it was from the previous owner. It probably just isn't worth the hassle and I should just re do it.

Am I overkilling by doing 4 gauge for a JBL 300.1 and a Alpine 10" Type-S in a stealthbox?

look at the strand count v/s feet per cost

Originally posted by Shorty95Camaro

Am I overkilling by doing 4 gauge for a JBL 300.1 and a Alpine 10" Type-S in a stealthbox? Yes. That is overkill. But that's good in this case! The bigger the wire the better. This way you will have some room to upgrade! Any if you are already spending $44 on the 4g kit, why not spend the extra $9 to get 1/0g??? Scala1 IS ikesound.com, so maybe they will ship it for free. (Like ikesound.com) I noticed the 1/0g kit wasn't on the site, but it's the same brand kits and everything. E-mail ikesound and ask if they have the 1/0 size. More then double the current carrying capacity, for only $9 more..... :D

also, another thing to think about is that if you ever add another amp, all you have to do is put a distrubution block.

Originally posted by PaulN64
also, another thing to think about is that if you ever add another amp, all you have to do is put a distrubution block. Which the $53 1/0g kit comes with!!!:D :D

Originally posted by firebirdude
Which the $53 1/0g kit comes with!!!:D :D

oh yeah!! I would so that you don't have to worry about running another wire.

I think with the JBL 300.1 amp I have, the biggest I can run is 4 gauge. So I think I'll just stick with that. 1 or 0 gauge would be incredible, but I think the 4 will be fine and the best I can do right now.

Thanks for the help,

Mark

Originally posted by Shorty95Camaro
I think with the JBL 300.1 amp I have, the biggest I can run is 4 gauge. I think the biggest wire the amp can accept is 4g, but that's what the distribution block is for. Do what you want, of course, but don't you think sometime down the road you will want to upgrade to a larger amp(s). Maybe add a 4-channel amp for your other speakers? And if you can get the 1/0g for nearly the same price...... like I said, do what you want. We are just trying to get you the best deal for your cash.:)

Originally posted by firebirdude
I think the biggest wire the amp can accept is 4g, but that's what the distribution block is for. Do what you want, of course, but don't you think sometime down the road you will want to upgrade to a larger amp(s). Maybe add a 4-channel amp for your other speakers? And if you can get the 1/0g for nearly the same price...... like I said, do what you want. We are just trying to get you the best deal for your cash.:)

very true. We just trying to save you the time of having to run another wire or having to rerun a new wire. I guess you can say we are talking from experience :D

Hmm... I have my credit card in front of me but I'll hold off.

Sorry, but I am another one of those guys who knows very little about car audio. What is a distribution block...how much does it cost? Etc.

Can you give me a little more info. Also...am i going to be able to "amplify" my speakers with the amp that I have?

It's sort of all confusing to me because my car has all these wires already run and then cut from the previous owner. I know I have 4 sets of wiring from my speakers...

Thanks,

http://www.knukonceptz.com/detail.asp?product_id=PB2044
this is what I would suggest for distribution block. Also, you don't have to rewire your car, but I suggest that you do if you are going to amp your mids and highs. I've had experience with my mids and highs powered by the HU, then by an amp and then running new 12awg wires to each speakers from the amp. You will notice the difference if you amp them and even notice a bigger difference if you ran new wires. If you do plan on running new wires, I suggest doing all this at the same time that you are going to run your power wire. I took out entire interior to rewire my car and it will make things eaiser for you and have a cleaner install. You can look at my sig and look at some of my rewire pics and even on my webshots page

Originally posted by Shorty95Camaro
What is a distribution block...how much does it cost? A distribution block is simply a block of metal the will allow you to screw your main power wire in to it. Then it has multiple holes to screw in smaller wires. Basically, it "splits" a larger wire into several smaller wires. In the amp wiring kit (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3027489917&category=4950) that I linked you to earlier comes with a distribution block. See that block of metal in the upper left hand corner of the package? It says "Audiopipe" in red letters. The bottom screw is to screw in the 1/0g wire. The four top screws are to screw in smaller wires. (Up to 4g) After you run the 1/0 to the rear of the car, connect the distribution block, then run a short piece of 4g to the BP300.1. Actually, 8g would be enough for the 300.1..... but either way....:) Then you would still have three screw holes left on the distribution block to connect any other amps you might buy. No need to run a whole new power wire from the battery.

I'm not 100% sure what you are asking here, but here goes. NO, you will not be able to amplifiy your door speakers with that amp. The JBL BP300.1 is a single channel amp. It is meant for subwoofer use only. You would want a 4-channel amp such as this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3027929302&category=4950) one to power your front and rear speakers. Or if you want to keep the amps the same brand, this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3027391240&category=4950) JBL amp. But it only outputs 40Wx4@4ohms. That's double what most head units output, but still kx600.4 would be tight. (75Wx4) Lemme know if you have any more questions. :)

hmm... looks like this thread is pretty well beaten to death... but if you've got any other questions here's another guru here...

And I'd run the 1/0 kit to start with, better to be too large gauge than too small gauge when you're talking power wires.

Originally posted by 97FormulaWS-6
hmm... looks like this thread is pretty well beaten to death... but if you've got any other questions here's another guru here...

And I'd run the 1/0 kit to start with, better to be too large gauge than too small gauge when you're talking power wires.

yup yup