trans & clutch are out again! also cylinder head is off, all in a days work :)

what a busy day, threw my car on stands and yanked the trans and clutch, Thanks Roman!

then went over to a friends house to pull a cylinder head! whew!

all done, now to send the clutch back to Mcleod for a refreshening, spoke to George there and i know he is going to set me up just fine, sorry guys but i'll never go auto! ha ha ha!!!!!!!

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MY car featured:

www.bmrfabrication.com.htm

........................
1996 Camaro SS A.R.E 398
11.36@120.35mph, NA
10.14@135.11mph N2O(no more excuses :D )
Best 60' 1.375
Best mph: 135.11mph

oh yeah also an 80 Camaro, an 98 Ram Sport, the latest addition a 94Z28, w/T-Tops!

"...i wish i was the full moon shining off a Camaro's hood..."
P.J.

I'm about ready to pull my trans out and have it worked over. I believe I bent the 3/4 shift fork pretty good. I'll rework the master and slave while I'm at it!

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Grand Rapids, MI
2002 WS6
http://www.sigma-epsilon.org/steve
stevedertien@attbi.com
Whisper Lid, Grotyohann Headers and Y-pipe, Corsa Exhaust, BMR SFC's, McLeod Single Disk, Spohn Torque Arm, LCA and Panhard Rod and much more to come

ouch! i hope you only bent the shift fork and didn't break it. i guess if they break you can kiss the trans internals goodbye, or so i have heard from the folks at D&D.

I hope you aren't driving the car like that. throw the viper shift fork in there you should be all set then.
i had my gears, input shaft, output shaft and cluster all cryogenically frozen. it can't hurt.

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MY car featured:

www.bmrfabrication.com.htm

........................
1996 Camaro SS A.R.E 398
11.36@120.35mph, NA
10.14@135.11mph N2O(no more excuses :D )
Best 60' 1.375
Best mph: 135.11mph

oh yeah also an 80 Camaro, an 98 Ram Sport, the latest addition a 94Z28, w/T-Tops!

"...i wish i was the full moon shining off a Camaro's hood..."
P.J.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by taner:
ouch! i hope you only bent the shift fork and didn't break it. i guess if they break you can kiss the trans internals goodbye, or so i have heard from the folks at D&D.

I hope you aren't driving the car like that. throw the viper shift fork in there you should be all set then.
i had my gears, input shaft, output shaft and cluster all cryogenically frozen. it can't hurt.

</font>

I'm calling D&D tomorrow morning actually! I'm not sure what I really did to be honest, it's just a pain in the ass to get it into 4th when the transmission is warmed up. Did D&D do the work on yours?

yes they did the disassambly and reassembly. i had the parts cryo'ed in windsor.

g'luck!

well the time has come, the stock clutch just isnt up to the duties anymore. I know I am not a "big dawg" and I am not making huge power buy why mess around. McLeod is gonna be the way to go. Where can I score a good deal on one?

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Matt Bonventre
Motown Muscle Officer
www.motownmuscle.com
1997 Z28 Drop Top M6
STILL bolt ons
STILL stock long block
STILL stock suspension and gears
13.048@106.39
12.145@113.54 w/ 100 shot of the juice

Taner, no problem, anytime you need some help and I can, I will be happy too. Thank you for helping me too.

derty, sorry to hear about the tranny. D&D seems to be the best place to get all of your t56 stuff done at.

Matt, you definately will not be disappointed with the street twin.

I ended up getting most of my stuff from Barry over at Quick Time Performance or Thunder Racing. You really can't go wrong with either one, just make sure you replace your slave while you are at it (you'll be sorry if you didn't). And becareful as to what brake fluid you use, the seals are tempermental against some synthetics or basically anything that's not mineral based. Long story on that one!!

DERTY,

just wondering about the slave, the one on my car only has 3000 miles on it. it is a new factory unit, i have never had an issue shifting into reverse which is a sign that the slave isn't able to perform adequately, i imagine that with a stock clutch i would be just fine, however with the street twin things are a bit more difficult.

Roman,
my pleasure, yet again a learning aexperience http://web.camaross.com/bb/smile.gif

Matt,

i know of someone with the same clutch i have for a very cheap price, only 150 or so miles on it and maybe 12 passes` email me and i can send u his ph. #.
one thing i have learned from mcleod is that this clutch is notthe type to be slipped, avoid it as much as possible. it may make for a harsher ride but if the clutch lasts then it is worth it in my opinion.

well gotta get crackin @ work

------------------
MY car featured:

www.bmrfabrication.com.htm

........................
1996 Camaro SS A.R.E 398
11.36@120.35mph, NA
10.14@135.11mph N2O(no more excuses :D )
Best 60' 1.375
Best mph: 135.11mph

oh yeah also an 80 Camaro, an 98 Ram Sport, the latest addition a 94Z28, w/T-Tops!

"...i wish i was the full moon shining off a Camaro's hood..."
P.J.

Taner,

I talked to McLeod about this with my car. Basically what happens to the slave is that the seals get used to a certain pressure. When you change the clutch (especially with a higher pressure) those seals are immediately disturbed.

My car had about 15,000 miles on it when I changed my clutch to a single disk. My slave immediately started to spew fluid when we were bleeding it because of the pressure difference! Prior to the install the slave was fine. It's only a $60 part from GMPartsDirect.com and it's just some added insurance and includes the new throwout bearing on it.

About the brake fluid you use. I've also learned that any fluid that is not mineral based risks the chance of eating the polybutyl rubber seals in the McLeod master and possibly the slave. Over time the seal seeps and you end up with some variable pedal pressure. I ended up with this symptom after using Valvoline Syntec Dot 3/4 which is a synthetic fluid. The pedal was great for 3000 miles or so and then bang went to hell quickly. I'm rebuilding mine now that I need to get the tranny out. I'm going to use ATE Super Blue fluid instead. It's got a really high boiling point and it's mineral based which shouldn't eat the seals up.

The clutch still works with the fluid issue, it just sucks to have an inconsistent pedal. Engagement zone remains the same though, just that the zone moves up and down the pedal range. McLeod sells a rebuild kit that contains the new cup and o-ring in case you have to rebuild your master. Much cheaper than buying a new one!

Hope that helps!

TanMan... quit flucking around and get that
Pro/Stock Lenco 5 speed in there. Clutch only used for launching and pushing in while unleashing parachute! http://web.camaross.com/bb/wink.gif

HInk http://web.camaross.com/bb/biggrin.gif

derty,

since that gm clutch master/slave has only seen the mcleod, will i be ok? i just sent it out this morning to mcleod, and it wasn't cheap!

HInk,

street car....street car! http://web.camaross.com/bb/wink.gif
i don't want to have to bang gears everywhere i go, lmao @ HInk!!!!

aka: Luke Stickshifter...... http://web.camaross.com/bb/wink.gif

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by taner:
derty,

since that gm clutch master/slave has only seen the mcleod, will i be ok? i just sent it out this morning to mcleod, and it wasn't cheap!

</font>

It may be ok if the pressure doesn't change much. There's no harm in putting it in and seeing what happens. If it goes south you'll know it real quick, the pedal will go to the floor with no more travel. Your fluid level will go down and if you jack the car up (get the nose pointed down) I'd be willing to bet that you get some brake fluid to drip out of the flywheel inspection slot. I had a full pint come out until I knew what the hell it was! Luckily that was when I was bleeding it, it went bad right there on the garage floor when the seal let loose and no matter what we did the pedal wouldn't come up for us.

Just make sure that if it does go bad to get it off the road quickly. Brake fluid on the clutch will destroy it and you'd be buying another clutch!

well i haven't noticed any fluid loss and the fluid level is full in the master resevoir, so i think that is not an issue.

pedal felt a bit softer but that has to be because the clutch had just gone away it was very well worn.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by taner:
well i haven't noticed any fluid loss and the fluid level is full in the master resevoir, so i think that is not an issue.

pedal felt a bit softer but that has to be because the clutch had just gone away it was very well worn.</font>

The downside is you won't feel it until AFTER you put it back together. Everything will be fine if you just pulled it out in most cases. It's going to be the new pressure that sets it off more than anything else. Hopefully it doesn't do anything other than work and that would be a good thing!

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by romanss:

Matt, you definately will not be disappointed with the street twin.

</font>

Yeah, but your wallet will be. http://web.camaross.com/bb/eek.gif
Matt: I'm running an LT4 pressure plate, with a McCleoud DF disk. It's stood up to a good amount of power. http://web.camaross.com/bb/wink.gif When I replace it though, I'm gonna go with the McCleoud sintered metal disk on a sprung hub.

/me hates overpriced dual-disk stuff. Too hard to set up, and too expensive to replace when it breaks.


------------------
Tom
1997 30th Aniv. SS &lt;&lt;383 Cubes of Nitrous Huffing Power!
2FASST.com (http://www.2fasst.com) &lt;&lt;&lt; Holy s***! It's really here?!?!
Motown Muscle (http://www.motownmuscle.com) &lt;&lt;&lt; Dedicated to today's musclecar!
2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke diesel. More torque than my racecar!
"...Now go away, or I shall taunt you a second time!"

I called D&D and they can do the transmission next week. When you sent your stuff out for Cryo how long did it take them to turn it around? Just curious because I may ask them to do the same. Can you let me know who did the cryo work so I can give them a call. Any idea how much all that ran you?

Matt,

no problem in setting it up? it isn't cheap but unless you plan on hitting nines you'll probably never have a problem!

how much is it worth to you to not have to replace the clutch sooner than you'd like. there are two ways of loking at things, if you can swing it by all means don't hesitate, you won't regret it. it is like whn i went to the 9" in my car when it was just bolt ons, i NEVER worried about hurting the rear after that, and i had the mcleod in there as well.
derty,
well the pressure plate and all will be the same he is just gonna reline the clutch plates with a kevar material, it will take more heat, as i do still drive it on the street as much as i can. although this summer has been interesting, but still good none the less.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by cASe SenSiTive:
Yeah, but your wallet will be. http://web.camaross.com/bb/eek.gif
Matt: I'm running an LT4 pressure plate, with a McCleoud DF disk. It's stood up to a good amount of power. http://web.camaross.com/bb/wink.gif When I replace it though, I'm gonna go with the McCleoud sintered metal disk on a sprung hub.

/me hates overpriced dual-disk stuff. Too hard to set up, and too expensive to replace when it breaks.


</font>

Tom, I guess that I believe in you get what you pay for. If you believe that you'll stop in the measly 500-700 rwhp range then maybe a single disc is the way to go. But if you want a man's clutch the street twin is the winner. It's true, it may and probably will take more to set up but if it was easy then it wouldn't be fun. If anyone needs a hand setting up a street twin, I gathered a bit of experience through my street twin racing.

Roman


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99 CAMARO SS
BORLA cat back
MTI air lid
MCLEOD street twin
HOTCHKISS everywhere
ET STREETS,or ET DRAGS
KTRE 12 bolt w/4.10's
BMR xtreme torque arm
Custom chrome moly cage
ARE stroker w/teeny tiny nitrous.

N/A 485 / 469
NOS 823 / 950

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/FeatureCars/Roman.htm

bests:
1999-13.37@102 stock
2000-11.94@118 bolt ons
2001-10.035@132.84
2002-10.89@125.00(N/A)
-9.94@138.45(N2O)

roman...... lmao, you read my mind!


bring on windsor day! and then M7 and finally Englishtown on Oct. 26 very http://web.camaross.com/bb/cool.gif

i actually hope i get bumped first round of windsor day, so i can throw the et drags on, i know i won't win the quick sixteen, so you know there is only one other thing i want
http://web.camaross.com/bb/wink.gif
maybe they'll let me make one record breaking pass in my lil' ol six speed. with the .040's in the bank http://web.camaross.com/bb/biggrin.gif
oh by the way are you sure i didn't throw .042's in there...... lmmfao!!!!!! better check http://web.camaross.com/bb/wink.gif


------------------
MY car featured:

www.bmrfabrication.com.htm

........................
1996 Camaro SS A.R.E 398
11.36@120.35mph, NA
10.14@135.11mph N2O(no more excuses :D )
Best 60' 1.375
Best mph: 135.11mph

oh yeah also an 80 Camaro, an 98 Ram Sport, the latest addition a 94Z28, w/T-Tops!

"...i wish i was the full moon shining off a Camaro's hood..."
P.J.