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Old 05-08-2004, 03:59 PM   #1
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Will a hydraulic flat tappet cam work in a roller cam block?

I have a ZZ4 short block that is set up for a roller cam. I need to know if my hydraulic flat tappet cam will work or if the angle of the lifters will be off. I am pretty sure that the angle for the lifters on a roller cam are centered, I need to know if they need to be angled with a hydraulic flat tappet cam. If anyone knows the difference for sure, please let me know.

I tried putting in the hydraulic flat tappet cam but it looks like the lobes are centered and I think they should be offset. Anyone know?
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Old 05-08-2004, 09:25 PM   #2
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it has nothing to do with the angle of the lifters...i can tell you this, itll cost MORE getting the lifters that youd need then just buying a good condiiton used roller cam off this board...people convert non roller blocks over to rollers, but i think this is the first time ive seen somone wanting to convert a roller block to a non roller..
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Old 05-08-2004, 09:28 PM   #3
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ive seen several factory roller engines that people have replaced the cam with a standard lifter and cam and it worked just fine

you will not have any problems
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Old 05-08-2004, 09:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by jay g
ive seen several factory roller engines that people have replaced the cam with a standard lifter and cam and it worked just fine

you will not have any problems

you make it sound as if its cheap and theres nothing to it
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Old 05-08-2004, 10:39 PM   #5
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I have measured the angle of a hydraulic flat tappet cam in my other block and the same cam in my roller block and the lifter bores are bored on a slightly different angle, I mean very slight from what I can tell, the lifters seem to sit centered on the roller cam block, shouldn't they be on a slight angle with a flat tappet cam?
Everything else seems to fit fine but I don't want to screw up a new cam or anything.
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Old 05-08-2004, 10:58 PM   #6
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The only difference in blocks from a old 2 piece seal flat tappet block and a 1 piece seal roller block is the height of the lifter bore is .300 taller. The angles are exactly the same, this is not like the small block Mopar. If you found the lifter angles to be off it's because the blocks are production machined and not CNC machined. It takes about $500 in labor to true the lifter bores up with a Bridgeport and a $1600 lifter true fixture. The camshaft lobe in a flat tappet cam is slightly angled to rotate the lifter.

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Old 05-08-2004, 11:17 PM   #7
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Thanks guys, I think I will try and stick with the flat tappet cam, even if the angle is different I don't think there is anything I can hurt on the block, just the cam.
This ZZ4 shortblock already cost more than I had expected, especially since GM was the only place to get a flexplate for it.
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Old 05-11-2004, 01:57 PM   #8
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I've got a hydraulic roller cam for sale jp. email me at bradc@citywide.com.

The specs are .495/.502 224*/228* 110*LSA Comp Cams 270H grind. $125 just pulled it out Sunday night.
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Old 05-11-2004, 06:43 PM   #9
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Putting a flat tappet into a factory roller block is dirt simple. Shove in the flat tappet cam and lifters, remove the stock roller cam retaining plate, install a standard flat tappet timing chain set (which is different from the roller cam chain set) and you're good to go. Done it several times. Most recently last month on a super-cheap 350 that's going in my wife's 92 Camaro "fun car."

The flat tappet lifters will look kinda "funny" sitting WAY down in those extra-tall roller lifter bores, but they'll work just peachy. In fact, the factory often used flat tappet cams in roller block castings for truck and boat engines. This is exactly how they did it.

Oh yeah...... you'll need flat-tappet length pushrods, too (~7.8"). Roller pushrods are shorter than those used on flat tappet cams in a SBC. No biggie. A decent cheap set can be had for just about nothing. A good set for about twice almost nothing.
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Old 05-11-2004, 06:43 PM
 
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