Crankwalk? Easiest way to rod bearings?
#1
Crankwalk? Easiest way to rod bearings?
I recently bought a 95 Z28 M6 with 118k miles, pretty much stock. Its leaking oil in the front and rear. I had it on a lift at work and a tech i work with was checking it out and he said it appeared the car had crankwalk and that was causing the front and rear seals to leak. Is this common on these cars? Also where can I buy a full rod bearing set with a new thrust bearing?
I plan on doing the rod bearings soon. What is the easiest way to put new ones in? The tech told me I could probably leave the engine in the car and do them. I just want to get a little more info.
I plan on doing the rod bearings soon. What is the easiest way to put new ones in? The tech told me I could probably leave the engine in the car and do them. I just want to get a little more info.
#3
It might be just a bad seal, how can we measure the thrust bearing movement? And what are the specs for this movement?
EDIT: I forgot to add that the inner rib of the serp belt was gone too. This makes it seem more like the crank has more movement than it should....
Last edited by 94greenta; 08-18-2009 at 11:22 AM.
#5
Can end-play be checked in vehicle? Remove trans/clutch and front pulley and then maybe pry from the rear??
My book says 0.002"-0.008" although I didn't check the service manual.
A rod bearing set has no effect on this tolereance. The thrust bearing is the rearward most main bearing. I would also find a new 'tech' because you have bad seals. The root cause is not a bearing until it is checked/verified and is yet to be determined as far as I can tell.
-Scott.
My book says 0.002"-0.008" although I didn't check the service manual.
A rod bearing set has no effect on this tolereance. The thrust bearing is the rearward most main bearing. I would also find a new 'tech' because you have bad seals. The root cause is not a bearing until it is checked/verified and is yet to be determined as far as I can tell.
-Scott.
#6
Can end-play be checked in vehicle? Remove trans/clutch and front pulley and then maybe pry from the rear??
My book says 0.002"-0.008" although I didn't check the service manual.
A rod bearing set has no effect on this tolereance. The thrust bearing is the rearward most main bearing. I would also find a new 'tech' because you have bad seals. The root cause is not a bearing until it is checked/verified and is yet to be determined as far as I can tell.
-Scott.
My book says 0.002"-0.008" although I didn't check the service manual.
A rod bearing set has no effect on this tolereance. The thrust bearing is the rearward most main bearing. I would also find a new 'tech' because you have bad seals. The root cause is not a bearing until it is checked/verified and is yet to be determined as far as I can tell.
-Scott.
Yea in the thread title I meant to put main but put rod. I know that the seals might just be bad but the fact that the serp belt is worn on the inner rib makes it seem like crankwalk but Im gonna look into it more.
#7
the belt wear could be caused by a number of things and taking your time and properly diagnosing the car will save you alot of money and headaches in the end
#8
i usually just put the dial indicator on the crank bolt and pry lightly on the back side of the crank pulley hub back and forth without disconnecting anything. your results might be off slightly because of the flywheel and clutch but you will get a good idea. if it does not move at all then it is not the problem. if it moves alot (close to the high side of the spec) then you should pull it and check it out of the car but by then you are half way to a rebuild anyway
the belt wear could be caused by a number of things and taking your time and properly diagnosing the car will save you alot of money and headaches in the end
the belt wear could be caused by a number of things and taking your time and properly diagnosing the car will save you alot of money and headaches in the end
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