350 stalling, part 2
10-23-2003, 04:57 PM
#1
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350 stalling, part 2
This is what i posted at thirdgen.org:
edit: i have 10.7:1 CR sealed power .125 domed pistons, but compression should be a pinging/ignition problem, it shouldn't affect my idle quality right?
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=206488 Is the first thread for reference.
Thanks to everyone for helping me out there.
So now I'm not pinging, the only thing wrong with the engine is that is still stalls at lights. I can't idle in drive w/o stalling after a short period of time(20-40 seconds).
WOT is perfect, I can romp the gas and get to 100MPH w/o any problems at all now that my ignition problems are gone. She's pulling nice and strong, I was actually feeling very good when I hit it today and felt how it accelerated, the engine is making power from off idle to 5000RPM pulling all the way. My only known mechanical problem is that my valvetrain is making a slight "clacky clack" I don't believe that is my problem for stalling, simply a lash issue.
I'm getting worried because I'm quickly running out of reasons why it keeps stalling. First I thought that maybe when the pinging/ignition problems were fixed it would get rid of the stalling. It extended the idle by an extra 10-15 seconds, but did not get rid of the stalling, only helped a little.
I was running 605 Autolite plugs, I switched to AC Delco R42LTS plugs last night as the 42-44 heat range were what everyone running milded built vortec 350s told me works. I was HOPING that since I just asked pep boys for stock L31 truck plugs that those autolites were stock heat range and that my plugs were getting heat soaked at idle. Not the case, the 42s did nothing for my idle. As far as I know, those Autolite 605s I was running are the hotter version. So changing to colder plugs did nothing to response, idle quality, or power. (edit: i gapped them to .040 as compared to the .035 of the autolites)
Every single one of those autolites came out looking PERFECT. No signs of physical wear, only slightly brownish. They only had 300 miles on them, but still that shows they were not getting beat. They were not white, honestly, I could not have hoped for a better looking plug. Which annoys me, because I still have no idea why it just stalls in drive when idling.
Whats left? I have bright blue spark, new plugs, good ignition. Everything to do with the top end is brand new. It will idle normally ( I wont' say smoothly, the XE268H cam has a nice lope to it, not too much, but just enough) after about 10-15 seconds I will lose the consistent idle and it will get rougher. The engine will shake then continue. The idle will continue to get rougher and rougher and the RPM will slowly get lower and lower. Reving and holding the brake doesn't work, it gets boggy and stumbles. Putting it in neutral and revin allows me to prevent stalling, but as soon as I let off the gas to put it back in drive it just stalls. I restart the car, put it back in gear and drive away. I've stalled in the middle of intersections like that at least 30 times the past 2 weeks.
I just makes no sense, nobody I know can understand what it could be. We dont even know what to look for at this point, because other then the idle stalling, it runs PERFECTS. It has great response, good power throughout the RPM range (no dead spots), no pinging.
I'm open to ANY ideas that dont' require the engine to be pulled out and taken apart. My only thoughts are that SOMEHOW I'm having fuel delivery problems but I shouldn't. The stock inline pump is always running and delivering fuel into my mallory 3 port regulator. We've adjusted the floats with the car in park and idling before, and trust me, the fuel pump is doing its job.
The odd part is that if you start the car up and just leave it in park, you can sit there with the engine idling for 5 minutes as you work under the hood. Yet if you put it in gear, drive around, then sit in neutral or drive it will stall. 2 nights ago I sat with the car idling in park in front of my house as I tuned the ignition for 3+ minutes. I then DROVE 1 mile to an empty parking lot (it was midnight) put her in park, and sat for another 5 minutes tuning the ignition more. Driving it around, parking, tuning the ignition timing. After doing that 3-4 times, I drove home, sat in drive at a dead stop in front of my house, guess what, 35 seconds she stalls. Why on earth will it idle all day long in park, but if I come to a light, and throw it in neutral, it will still start to stall on its own. It makes no sense.
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks to everyone for helping me out there.
So now I'm not pinging, the only thing wrong with the engine is that is still stalls at lights. I can't idle in drive w/o stalling after a short period of time(20-40 seconds).
WOT is perfect, I can romp the gas and get to 100MPH w/o any problems at all now that my ignition problems are gone. She's pulling nice and strong, I was actually feeling very good when I hit it today and felt how it accelerated, the engine is making power from off idle to 5000RPM pulling all the way. My only known mechanical problem is that my valvetrain is making a slight "clacky clack" I don't believe that is my problem for stalling, simply a lash issue.
I'm getting worried because I'm quickly running out of reasons why it keeps stalling. First I thought that maybe when the pinging/ignition problems were fixed it would get rid of the stalling. It extended the idle by an extra 10-15 seconds, but did not get rid of the stalling, only helped a little.
I was running 605 Autolite plugs, I switched to AC Delco R42LTS plugs last night as the 42-44 heat range were what everyone running milded built vortec 350s told me works. I was HOPING that since I just asked pep boys for stock L31 truck plugs that those autolites were stock heat range and that my plugs were getting heat soaked at idle. Not the case, the 42s did nothing for my idle. As far as I know, those Autolite 605s I was running are the hotter version. So changing to colder plugs did nothing to response, idle quality, or power. (edit: i gapped them to .040 as compared to the .035 of the autolites)
Every single one of those autolites came out looking PERFECT. No signs of physical wear, only slightly brownish. They only had 300 miles on them, but still that shows they were not getting beat. They were not white, honestly, I could not have hoped for a better looking plug. Which annoys me, because I still have no idea why it just stalls in drive when idling.
Whats left? I have bright blue spark, new plugs, good ignition. Everything to do with the top end is brand new. It will idle normally ( I wont' say smoothly, the XE268H cam has a nice lope to it, not too much, but just enough) after about 10-15 seconds I will lose the consistent idle and it will get rougher. The engine will shake then continue. The idle will continue to get rougher and rougher and the RPM will slowly get lower and lower. Reving and holding the brake doesn't work, it gets boggy and stumbles. Putting it in neutral and revin allows me to prevent stalling, but as soon as I let off the gas to put it back in drive it just stalls. I restart the car, put it back in gear and drive away. I've stalled in the middle of intersections like that at least 30 times the past 2 weeks.
I just makes no sense, nobody I know can understand what it could be. We dont even know what to look for at this point, because other then the idle stalling, it runs PERFECTS. It has great response, good power throughout the RPM range (no dead spots), no pinging.
I'm open to ANY ideas that dont' require the engine to be pulled out and taken apart. My only thoughts are that SOMEHOW I'm having fuel delivery problems but I shouldn't. The stock inline pump is always running and delivering fuel into my mallory 3 port regulator. We've adjusted the floats with the car in park and idling before, and trust me, the fuel pump is doing its job.
The odd part is that if you start the car up and just leave it in park, you can sit there with the engine idling for 5 minutes as you work under the hood. Yet if you put it in gear, drive around, then sit in neutral or drive it will stall. 2 nights ago I sat with the car idling in park in front of my house as I tuned the ignition for 3+ minutes. I then DROVE 1 mile to an empty parking lot (it was midnight) put her in park, and sat for another 5 minutes tuning the ignition more. Driving it around, parking, tuning the ignition timing. After doing that 3-4 times, I drove home, sat in drive at a dead stop in front of my house, guess what, 35 seconds she stalls. Why on earth will it idle all day long in park, but if I come to a light, and throw it in neutral, it will still start to stall on its own. It makes no sense.
Thanks,
Dave
10-23-2003, 05:39 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Welland Ont Canada
Posts: 379
I`m gonna say MAYBE the torque converter if it`s a lock up type it maybe trying to lock when your idling which will make your car stall or maybe your engine wants more fuel? turn your idle screws out 1/2 turn it might make a difference
Oh and if you have a lockup converter that is electronicly controled unplug it and see if you still stall
My pontiac 6000 was doing somthing like that and it was the converter
Oh and if you have a lockup converter that is electronicly controled unplug it and see if you still stall
My pontiac 6000 was doing somthing like that and it was the converter
10-23-2003, 05:47 PM
#3
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I have no lockup, it's disconnected. Is this a problem? By buddy said he ran his 200R4 on his monte w/o lockup for over a year w/o problems.
Is there a reason it idles in park and not in drive? Would the idle screws affect that? I'll give anything a shot at this point.
Is there a reason it idles in park and not in drive? Would the idle screws affect that? I'll give anything a shot at this point.
10-24-2003, 04:22 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Welland Ont Canada
Posts: 379
the converter won`t be a promblem if it`s not hooked up I don`t think.
I think I read somthing about Holleys stalling your car if the power valve is wrong for your vacum pressure I`ll check my holley book and see I might be able to get back to you tomarrow
try turning your idle screws out a 1/2 turn if your problem is still there turn them back
you say your fuel pump is good I think you said it`s a inline pump try useing a different inline pump if you can?
I`m still trying to think what it could be I`ll let you know if I think of anything else
I think I read somthing about Holleys stalling your car if the power valve is wrong for your vacum pressure I`ll check my holley book and see I might be able to get back to you tomarrow
try turning your idle screws out a 1/2 turn if your problem is still there turn them back
you say your fuel pump is good I think you said it`s a inline pump try useing a different inline pump if you can?
I`m still trying to think what it could be I`ll let you know if I think of anything else
10-24-2003, 04:39 PM
#5
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I let the car stall in gear and took my sight glass off, The primary looked empty, nothing leaked out when I took the sight glass out and I couldn't see any fuel inside. So basically I'm thinking for some reason I'm not getting fuel at idle.
I'm actually starting to think that for some reason at idle, my carb won't allow fuel into floats or whatever. Like, the car needs to be under load to get fuel. Or at least reving...it makes no sense.
I'm actually starting to think that for some reason at idle, my carb won't allow fuel into floats or whatever. Like, the car needs to be under load to get fuel. Or at least reving...it makes no sense.
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