Rear End Options
#1
Rear End Options
I blew the little 10 bolt a few weeks ago so now I need a bigger one. I was talking to a couple shops and they were saying that with the Ford 9", once you weld on the brackets for the torque arm it whines like a b!atch.
Whats your guys' take on this. Would a 12 bolt with the C clip eliminator be the proper way to go without a lot of noise and keeping that "bullet proof" strength I'm looking for?
Thanks in advance.
-Ken
Whats your guys' take on this. Would a 12 bolt with the C clip eliminator be the proper way to go without a lot of noise and keeping that "bullet proof" strength I'm looking for?
Thanks in advance.
-Ken
#3
Re: Rear End Options
Anyone got any thoughts on the 8" 10 bolt. I was just talking to a shop and he was saying that the 8" 10 bolt and the 12 bolt are of similar strengths. I'm not sure if I should believe that or not....
#4
Re: Rear End Options
If you're going to spend $2,500 on a 12 bolt you might as well buy a Ford 9" from Currie that will bolt right in also. I am not sure about the sound issue you are talking about. I have a 10 bolt in my car right now and am aobut ready to purchase the 9" from Currie. So I hope once I get it it don't make a lot of noise. But for that price I would rather have a 9" rear!!!
#5
Re: Rear End Options
The aftermarket $2500 Ford 9" or 12 bolt are direct bolt in. All the mounting points are cast or welded onto the diffs.
Trying to adapt a junkyard 12 bolt or 9" means you need to find some way to attach the torque arm. Spring and shock mounts are easy. The 12 bolt has a cast center section which makes welding a mount very difficult especially if it needs to be a very strong weld. The 9" has a steel housing that an adaptor bracket is welded to. The key to using a junkyard diff is to also find one the same width as the original. Stay away from 12 bolt truck diffs. They're not the same as a 12 bolt car diff.
The GM 8.2" isn't very common. The large 10 bolt is 8.5". The 12 bolt is 8.875" so there isn't much difference in ring gear size.
The 12 bolt uses a little less hp than the 9". The 9" allows for easier gear swaps. Most street drivers won't be considering gear swaps very often. You can also buy a center section for the 9" from Strange that lets you use the better 12 bolt gears.
Trying to adapt a junkyard 12 bolt or 9" means you need to find some way to attach the torque arm. Spring and shock mounts are easy. The 12 bolt has a cast center section which makes welding a mount very difficult especially if it needs to be a very strong weld. The 9" has a steel housing that an adaptor bracket is welded to. The key to using a junkyard diff is to also find one the same width as the original. Stay away from 12 bolt truck diffs. They're not the same as a 12 bolt car diff.
The GM 8.2" isn't very common. The large 10 bolt is 8.5". The 12 bolt is 8.875" so there isn't much difference in ring gear size.
The 12 bolt uses a little less hp than the 9". The 9" allows for easier gear swaps. Most street drivers won't be considering gear swaps very often. You can also buy a center section for the 9" from Strange that lets you use the better 12 bolt gears.
#6
Re: Rear End Options
I built a Ford 8.8 hybrid and I love it. Almost as light as stock ten bolt. 31 spline Moser press on bearing bolt on axles. I used 9" axle ends for retention. More effecient than a 12 bolt or especially a 9 inch. Very quiet running and the stock torque arm, sway bar, and brakes bolt up. 12 bolts are way heavier and the ring gear is practically identical at 8.875" so the strength between the 8.8 and 12 bolt is limited by the parts you put in them not the rear itself. C-clip eliminators use a smaller bearing=weak and tend to leak especially on the street. 9 inch is the strongest but too heavy and noisy for my taste plus they are not exactly a direct bolt in.
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