if you want pics of true duals on a 3rd gen click here
#1
if you want pics of true duals on a 3rd gen click here
I came across this at thirdgen.org and I thought it would be usefull here
I`m going to copy juggernaut_69`s setup FOR SURE although it`s gonna cost $1200 to get that exhaust under my 85 Zed
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...hreadid=204351
I`m going to copy juggernaut_69`s setup FOR SURE although it`s gonna cost $1200 to get that exhaust under my 85 Zed
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...hreadid=204351
#4
thats a canadian price EVRYTHING cost more over here . Sure I`ll lose some ground clearance BUT I`ll have duels I just hate the single pipe I want juggernuat`s system in 3" dual cats with Dynomaxx bullets, I want the Cool factor, I want to see this look ---> on peoples faces when I tell them my Zed has 3" duals on it , I also want the sound and power increase, no single exhust be it 2.5, 3 or 4" will sound as cool as a dual setup and it`ll cost me alittle more then $1200 to put a 3" Flowmaster Cat back under there
3" Y pipe- $200
3" cat- $200
3" Flowmaster cat back- $800
Mufflers- $100 atleast each
Cats-$200 each
atleast 4 hours of labour @ $60h
+15% tax
So $1200 sounds right damn it
so there you have it, I`m goin with the Duals
3" Y pipe- $200
3" cat- $200
3" Flowmaster cat back- $800
Mufflers- $100 atleast each
Cats-$200 each
atleast 4 hours of labour @ $60h
+15% tax
So $1200 sounds right damn it
so there you have it, I`m goin with the Duals
#7
i was thinking the same setup, but then i was told by several people more experienced than me that i'd get the same performance out of a 3.5" or 4" single setup. its your money though we'll just provide the facts
and i'm pretty sure the best sounding and performing exhuast IMO are longtubes, but its not even a complete exhaust system
and i'm pretty sure the best sounding and performing exhuast IMO are longtubes, but its not even a complete exhaust system
#8
Originally posted by Chris`s85Z28
thats a canadian price EVRYTHING cost more over here . Sure I`ll lose some ground clearance BUT I`ll have duels I just hate the single pipe I want juggernuat`s system in 3" dual cats with Dynomaxx bullets, I want the Cool factor, I want to see this look ---> on peoples faces when I tell them my Zed has 3" duals on it , I also want the sound and power increase, no single exhust be it 2.5, 3 or 4" will sound as cool as a dual setup and it`ll cost me alittle more then $1200 to put a 3" Flowmaster Cat back under there
3" Y pipe- $200
3" cat- $200
3" Flowmaster cat back- $800
Mufflers- $100 atleast each
Cats-$200 each
atleast 4 hours of labour @ $60h
+15% tax
So $1200 sounds right damn it
so there you have it, I`m goin with the Duals
thats a canadian price EVRYTHING cost more over here . Sure I`ll lose some ground clearance BUT I`ll have duels I just hate the single pipe I want juggernuat`s system in 3" dual cats with Dynomaxx bullets, I want the Cool factor, I want to see this look ---> on peoples faces when I tell them my Zed has 3" duals on it , I also want the sound and power increase, no single exhust be it 2.5, 3 or 4" will sound as cool as a dual setup and it`ll cost me alittle more then $1200 to put a 3" Flowmaster Cat back under there
3" Y pipe- $200
3" cat- $200
3" Flowmaster cat back- $800
Mufflers- $100 atleast each
Cats-$200 each
atleast 4 hours of labour @ $60h
+15% tax
So $1200 sounds right damn it
so there you have it, I`m goin with the Duals
install it yourself SISSY!
exhasut work has to bew the easiest thing to do on a car.
#9
I plan on cutting floorboards aft of the front seats to make room for dual exhaust/mufflers.
Hey, I've got a dad who's rediculously good at sheetmetal work and he is actually wanting to help on this project. So I plan on taking pix and making sure to let you all know how it works out.
I want to run 3" to flowmasters and dump before the rear, but I just don't know how feasable it will be. From the looks of it, we should be able to make it work.
Hey, I've got a dad who's rediculously good at sheetmetal work and he is actually wanting to help on this project. So I plan on taking pix and making sure to let you all know how it works out.
I want to run 3" to flowmasters and dump before the rear, but I just don't know how feasable it will be. From the looks of it, we should be able to make it work.
#12
i would never run "true duals" because that in theory could quite easily hurt the motor. If both pipes are not exactly the same the back pressure would be different from the left side to the right side which could quite effectively unbalance the motor. And the only way to have them the exact same is to run them straight back and dump before the axels which should cost you 1200 dollars.
If youre going to do true duals i would reccomend an X pipe for the sake of keeping the backpressure the same for both sides of the motor. If youre going full out custom exhaust i always thought a good system would be both headers come down into their own pipes and each have an electric cutout. From there the pipes go through cats, into a single 4" (or 3" if the motor is relatively stock) pipe that goes over the axel.
If youre going to do true duals i would reccomend an X pipe for the sake of keeping the backpressure the same for both sides of the motor. If youre going full out custom exhaust i always thought a good system would be both headers come down into their own pipes and each have an electric cutout. From there the pipes go through cats, into a single 4" (or 3" if the motor is relatively stock) pipe that goes over the axel.
#13
Originally posted by greezemonkey
All that run 11.00`s or faster thru their single 3 OR 4 inch pipe(on motor) stand up
All that run 11.00`s or faster thru their single 3 OR 4 inch pipe(on motor) stand up
Take off the exhaust and leave the parts in the car and make a run. Do a few and compare it with a few runs with the exhaust on. That should give you a hint as to whether the exhast is doing what it should or if it is being PITA,
#14
Originally posted by 95NateZ28
Make that 12.00 or faster....
I seriously have no desire to put my Super Comp header'd, AFR head, 11:1, Solid lift cam, 750DP carb'd, 383 engine through a y-pipe and "cat-back".
Make that 12.00 or faster....
I seriously have no desire to put my Super Comp header'd, AFR head, 11:1, Solid lift cam, 750DP carb'd, 383 engine through a y-pipe and "cat-back".
I need a new exhust anyway why would a put a cat back on when a dual setup will cost just as much? I`m going with duals and more then likey it`ll be juggernaut`s system. I`ll be going with a H pipe because I need to put cats in or I would go with an X pipe
and um.. Doug you run true duals on your car, you even put up a link at thirdgen.org showin your duals.
#15
Here's a quote from Injuneer on the LT1 forum on the same issue:
"George Baxter ran over 1,100flywheel HP through an exhaust that consisted of Hooker 1-3/4" LT's, a custom made 3" Mufflex Y-pipe, and a Mufflex 4" catback. In order to save weight, he removed the 4" Mufflex catback (45#) and ran with just a 3" Borla XR-1 shorty on each collector and a turndown. There was no difference in RWHP for the two systems, as measured on a chassis dyno. He did drop his ET from 9.11 to 9.04, but that was all due to weight savings (a total of 90# was removed). The 4" Mufflex can handle well over 1,000HP.
I had pretty much the same results.... 1-3/4 AS&M's into the Borla XR-1's, custom 3" Mufflex Y-pipe, 4" Mufflex catback, at a shade under 800HP. Removing the catback and the Y-pipe, and adding enough 3" pipe to get the turndowns past the back edge of the door (as required by local track rules) did not change RWHP."
Here's the whole thread:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...=george+baxter
I guess if the "cool" factor is all your after than I guess it's worth it.
"George Baxter ran over 1,100flywheel HP through an exhaust that consisted of Hooker 1-3/4" LT's, a custom made 3" Mufflex Y-pipe, and a Mufflex 4" catback. In order to save weight, he removed the 4" Mufflex catback (45#) and ran with just a 3" Borla XR-1 shorty on each collector and a turndown. There was no difference in RWHP for the two systems, as measured on a chassis dyno. He did drop his ET from 9.11 to 9.04, but that was all due to weight savings (a total of 90# was removed). The 4" Mufflex can handle well over 1,000HP.
I had pretty much the same results.... 1-3/4 AS&M's into the Borla XR-1's, custom 3" Mufflex Y-pipe, 4" Mufflex catback, at a shade under 800HP. Removing the catback and the Y-pipe, and adding enough 3" pipe to get the turndowns past the back edge of the door (as required by local track rules) did not change RWHP."
Here's the whole thread:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...=george+baxter
I guess if the "cool" factor is all your after than I guess it's worth it.