CamaroRob97

Feeling really dumb here with my situation so here goes....


I recently yanked out the 305 out of my '88 RS and swapped with a low mileage rebuilt '72 350 bored .040 over. It retains the stock heads, with a new lunati voodoo cam (mild 207/213) new timing set and lifters with an edelbrock performer intake and carb, believed to be a 600 cfm. I got it from a friend about year ago and IIRC thats what he said it was. Only other mods are i put an HEI distributor in it (non comp style) and it has SLP shorties with the SLP dual Y-pipe into the Borla cat back. Obviously im very very inexperienced with carb set up cars, but am very interested in learn about them





My concern is this:

When I try to get a reading to set the timing (with the vacuum advance hose plugged)it shows that the timing mark is way advanced (its the original timing tab). If the timing tab had enough marks on it it'd probably read like 26* at idle!?!? What have i done wrong here?

I know the base timing for this engine should be somewheres around 8-10*. I know the centrifugal advance bushings are worn (gotta curve kit on order) and that they aren't sticking. A little over a year ago I replaced them and think i out the medium weight ones in.


Also the tach in the car was always off by like 500-600 RPM. When i did a tune up on (back when it had the 305 in it) I just dissconected the yellow lead going to the cap. Now with this new engine it was hooked up just for sh*ts and giggles to see what'd happen and its reading pegged way out. Like its hitting the oil pressure needle. I was thinking somewhere the ground isn't making contact. Anyone ever had this happen? Any suggestions?

Lastly just out of curiosity, the old style temp sensor for this '72 and the one that the 305 used are not the same size. The '72's is much bigger and I have tried using the '72 style but am getting no reading. The temp sensor worked fine with the 305. Does any one know if the Ohms are different in the 2 styles and maybe thats why im not getting a reading?

CamaroRob97

No body form CZ has an idea??

Phantomfe3

it might be easier to get an aftermarket temp guage and use the sender that comes with that. i would suggest getting an electric one so you dont have to deal with a big ugly temp sender hose/wire and you can just use a regular wire.

as far as the tach thing goes, i have no idea, my tach has always worked fine, even through putting a brand new distrigutor and ignition box on. it might be easier to do the same thing as the temp guage, just go aftermarket

as far as timing goes, if the engine runs good, idles fine, and doesnt knock, i would find someone who knows how to time a motor properly and drive it to them to get it done

Rice Killer87

If your sure that its really 20 sum degrees at idle,than back it down slowly and raise your idle on the carb if/so it doesnt stall. It needs to be around 10-12 b/c of the performance camshaft.

After you get that straightened out, get the idle set. Does the carb have four corner idle circiuts? If so there will be 2 screws on each side on the metering block (the thing between the fuel bowl and main body of the carb).

If you do, turn them slowly until the idle stops going up. When you do one side, you HAVE to turn the one on the opposite side ( front to front, back to back) the same amount in the same direction...say you turn the front dr. side one right a full turn,the pass front one needs to be turned right one full turn. This may take a little time but will help the car run better.

95camaro3800

Can you hear any detonation with the timing that advanced? I would think it would be knocking like a son of a gun.. I know mine was when I accidentally moved it to ~18*.

go2fast

I'd be wondering if my balancer had slipped. I doubt it's really that advanced. You can get an adapter for the temp gauge, but I thought the two styles were compatible. Are you sure you're using an old style sender for a gauge and not one for an idiot light?