Irocdriver89

well i took another hit at my friend in his ss as imagined i loss 89 trans am gta auto g92 with most bolt on's i can't get out the hole with all this stupied torque i guess it's my fault i have done no mods to my lunch set up so anybody have any proven way to plant an l98. money is not an issue if it means me blowing this *** off the plant. after we get rolling i start to pull back on him so i know if i could only get out the hole i might beat him

96LT14u2Nv

LCA's and drag radials would proably be a good start. not too epensive either.

Irocdriver89

ok im retarted when it comes to this stuff lac stand for what. also i heard i can uses some head work what should i tell the machine shop to do.

Marc 85Z28

LCAs = Rear lower control arms. And if your car is lowered LCA relocation brackets will help tremendously.

Drag Radials will make a huge difference. Both Nitto and BFGoodrich make good ones, with the BFGs being a little stickier.

Visit www.spohn.net for the suspension pieces.

teke184

agreed, lca

if $$ isn't an issue i would look into a good torque arm

or at least get a poly torque arm mount for your stocker

WS6NIGHTMARE

I have owned 3 of these 3rd gen cars and the hole is where you have to get these 4th gens or it aint happening. Your Lower Control Arms will help eliminate that hopping you may have once you get better tires on. Then look into an adjustable torque arm, loads of difference. Then you could look at the Eibach Drag Launch springs and some sort of adjustable shocks, I had Tokico. All that is gonna be a good chunk of cash, but since its not a problem for you (big baller) , then it wont take you long to get it on there and start crackin these 4th gens . Have fun!

ME Leigh

One word Traclink

http://www.globalwest.net/camaro93.htm#TRACLINK%20kits

aklim

How about good poly bushings and relocate your battery to the rear right like Mercedes has done for years?

kandied91z

how come no one has asked what tires are being ran?

first off i'd say if your tires are good you need to learn to drive....with that out of the way traction is nothing without a good set of tires. all of the upgraded pars will help but they are problem specific. if traction and torque are your main problem with simply spinning you need good tires.

greezemonkey

ME liegh, do you have any experince with the trac link? I`ve got a spohn T/A now and I`m really impressed on how it looks and all but it seems to have less traction now than before, also the car kicks outsideways....it never did before. I tried going to -6 degrees all the back to +6 degrees and it actually worked best with the diff pointed up? I have tub lower arms reloca brackets adjustable shocks and BFG drag rads and it just a mess to try~n~launch...That thing is pricey so before I leap I`d like to see what type of gains it`ll give. My car used to 60 at 1.6 sec before all of the add ons....

irocdriver89 you still running a stock stall converter? If so, I would get on a ten or 9 inch that would flash to around 3,000...get a set of some decent tires that`ll throw small rocks ~n~ pebbels at your quarter`s when their hot(BFG drag rads), that should get you going out of the gate, then all you`ll need to do is make sure you have enough raw horse to out run a fourth gen

Irocdriver89

i just went and bought some drag bfg's hugh difference but even after heating them up i still burn them until i hit mid second gear. them i gaIN traction next i'm going to day to the local speed shop to see about getting lca and some of the other stuff you guys were talking about thanks for the help.

AutoRoc

Spohn and BMR both make great parts for these cars. I would do Lower Control Arms and DEFINATELY the relocation brackets. They're worth their weight in gold even if the car isn't lowered. Best way seems to be the bolt on version and also have them welded once they're torqued in properly.

If you're willing to step into an ET Street type of tire, you're making things a lot easier as far as hunting for traction goes. These are the shotgun ya need. Removal of the front sway bar is a freebie also that worth 2 or three fold by removing weight, removing front end weight, and letting the front end work with weight tranfer better.

Remove all other dead weight also. It's tough enough getting these tanks to move. The jack, spare tire, AIR system, and back seat aren't helping you in any way Maybe gut the front bumper area also.

94z'sson

have weighed my car before i did anything and it only 3300 lbs

no i have put tubular front and rear suspension on the car as well as removed the ac and other non essential stuff and i am now down to around 3000 lbs and after is start removing the rest of the stuff (front bumper support and get a fiberglass hood as well as other goodies ) then it will be even lighter

Marc 85Z28

You don't have enough power to run down that LS1 but you have enough power to "burn them until mid second gear"? You're going to need some serious power to light up heated BFGs through second gear...

So exactly what bolt-ons do you have? And if excess torque in an issue for you, why not invest in an HSR setup? That would cure the excess torque and lack of HP.

Ucantcme57

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1290

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1300


http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1295


http://www.p-s-t.com/sport/sikyb.html
KYB Adjustable AGX Gas Shocks
for Sports and Imports

Go and buy all this.. Have installed then get some 15 inch rims and some of these..

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.html

Go for the 295/65/R15's for the rear then adjust the rear shocks to want to push down easily ya know soft and the front want to stick straight up and be really hard. then launch on these fools.. When your not racing just put all four shocks back to 6 or something and then drive like normal. Should be able to post great numbers with this setup. It's the one I have chosen. Haven't tested it yet.. Still waiting on Motor..