89 Iroc running rough
#1
89 Iroc running rough
I have a 89 Iroc 350 tpi auto with 80k on the clock.... I'd had this car for years and never came cross this problem. My car runs rough at lower rpms, and idle. After you get going, it seem fine, but when I stop or go slow it does it again. If I put it in gear, hold the brakes, and give it a little gas to put it under a load, it breaks back very bad. last tune up was less than a year ago. I used accel 8.8 wires with Autolite Double Platinum plugs. I changed the fuel filter today hoping that was the problem but no luck there. If anyone knows what the problem is please help. This is my daily driver and it's killing me in gas.
#4
I have a 89 Iroc 350 tpi auto with 80k on the clock.... I'd had this car for years and never came cross this problem. My car runs rough at lower rpms, and idle. After you get going, it seem fine, but when I stop or go slow it does it again. If I put it in gear, hold the brakes, and give it a little gas to put it under a load, it breaks back very bad. last tune up was less than a year ago. I used accel 8.8 wires with Autolite Double Platinum plugs. I changed the fuel filter today hoping that was the problem but no luck there. If anyone knows what the problem is please help. This is my daily driver and it's killing me in gas.
first test i would do is ohm my injectors.
#5
I'm not getting a light, so no codes. I forgat to say that I did run the car a little hot one day about 240* but cooled it off asap. I'm going to change plugs this weekend, hoping that i may have burned one.
#7
A bad plug will not cause the symptoms you have described, neither will the IAC. An egr valve could at low rpm cruise, but not idle.
Your injectors however, can cause all the symptoms.
I never understood why people start these threads asking for help, just so that people who know these cars can HONESTLY try and help, then the OP just throws parts at the car anyway.
#8
why start throwing parts at the car? why not trouble shoot it properly and find out the problem quicker and more cost effective than just throwing parts at the car.
A bad plug will not cause the symptoms you have described, neither will the IAC. An egr valve could at low rpm cruise, but not idle.
Your injectors however, can cause all the symptoms.
I never understood why people start these threads asking for help, just so that people who know these cars can HONESTLY try and help, then the OP just throws parts at the car anyway.
A bad plug will not cause the symptoms you have described, neither will the IAC. An egr valve could at low rpm cruise, but not idle.
Your injectors however, can cause all the symptoms.
I never understood why people start these threads asking for help, just so that people who know these cars can HONESTLY try and help, then the OP just throws parts at the car anyway.
#9
But doesn't the EGR valve cause a light? Just to give you a better idea of whats going on. I know everyone at some point has ran there car a little low of gas, turn a curve and it starts to break back then it picks back up and smooths out... Well thats how my car does every time I take off. If i stop at a light for a long time, it gets worse. Longer I sit at idle the worse it gets.
Last edited by 89_Irocz; 05-14-2008 at 07:19 AM.
#10
why start throwing parts at the car? why not trouble shoot it properly and find out the problem quicker and more cost effective than just throwing parts at the car.
A bad plug will not cause the symptoms you have described, neither will the IAC. An egr valve could at low rpm cruise, but not idle.
Your injectors however, can cause all the symptoms.
I never understood why people start these threads asking for help, just so that people who know these cars can HONESTLY try and help, then the OP just throws parts at the car anyway.
A bad plug will not cause the symptoms you have described, neither will the IAC. An egr valve could at low rpm cruise, but not idle.
Your injectors however, can cause all the symptoms.
I never understood why people start these threads asking for help, just so that people who know these cars can HONESTLY try and help, then the OP just throws parts at the car anyway.
But I do know what you mean though,tell them some things to check and they come back and say "well,i put new this this and this on it and it still does it" and they dont even try what you tell 'em...LOL,I just laugh.
#11
Dude,evidently you've never had a fouled spark plug or an EGR valve stuck open b/c BOTH of them would cause bad idling/stalling and a fouled plug could cause it to backfire which sounds like hes trying to explain? Im not sure what "break back" means though.
But I do know what you mean though,tell them some things to check and they come back and say "well,i put new this this and this on it and it still does it" and they dont even try what you tell 'em...LOL,I just laugh.
But I do know what you mean though,tell them some things to check and they come back and say "well,i put new this this and this on it and it still does it" and they dont even try what you tell 'em...LOL,I just laugh.
FWIW i had the same issue and it was a bad injector.
#14
How about a vacuum leak? Any one of a number of vacuum lines could be disconnected or loose. This would cause a terrible idle and would clean up with more throttle. Check your brake booster hose and several of the TPI hoses on the passenger side towards the rear - anything connected to the plenum assembly.
Good luck, hope this helps.
Good luck, hope this helps.
#15
I have had EGR throw codes and not throw codes before... My blazer is a perfect example of looking all over to find out it was the EGR, and there were no codes when I would srat it up and it would idle or rev in park. the minute I got on the road and hit 55.. it would throw the code and darn near scare me to death. because a stuck EGR valve is like a big vac leak. IE. bye bye Power brakes.
Other things to check, EGR valve gasket. Vacuum line leaks.
Other things to check, EGR valve gasket. Vacuum line leaks.