santiagocabral

You are right about filling the filter, but..... A dry start means that there is no oil running through the bearings for any length of time, yes it does have oil but that is not enough to protect it for much more then a second or two with out starting to create wear. This wear is so small that the human eye can not see it, but it can be measured. the cold starts that I am referring to come from many guys that will wait and let the engine sit at least over night or even a few days if the car is not the primary transportation. So I have heard some state that they wait a week or more to let all of the oil drain off the engine and then they do the change and do not fill the filter. their thinking is trying to get as much old oil out as possible. Your right... I did forget to mention to fill the filter. I do the same. but in any case no one will ever know what damage they may or may not have done to their engine until many many miles and years down the road when it is no longer running any good. then and only then will they see the results... if they still own it and do an overhaul. A dry start for any length of time is not good. so by doing fewer oil changes you are doing less harm.

There is one way and only one way to do an oil change with out doing a dry start up. I do this religiously on all new or rebuilt engine I do. just before I start the engine for the first time, I remove the distributer "on those that have the Old style" drop in a long shaft that is connected to a power drill and run the oil pump for about 10 minutes. then I start it up.

In any case every body make to much out of an oil change. just stick with synthetic oil "a good brand" and keep close watch on the oil pressure and temp. consider the type of driving condition as well. Freeway driving does far less harm then stop and go does. This is where moisture comes in to play. High humid climate areas have more oil issues then dry areas. I use my Camaro mostly for travel, about 90 percent is freeway driving. I have kept very close tabs on the oil and at 13,000 it was still semi clear as if it had only 3000 on it.

A drop in oil pressure over the years is an indecator on just how much wear is on the bearings and the crank shaft. If after 100.000 miles your oil pressure is still at the same pressure then when you first bought it then your doing great. The only time some one needs to worry is when the pressure drops below 5 PSI at an ideal. If so.... you have alot of wear. at this point I would not take the car to the strip and drag race it. You will spin a bearing!!!

Now oil presure on a modified pro stock engine works different. the bearing clearance is greater then stock. The oil pumps on Pro stock and bigger engines have higher volume pumps to acount for the greater bearing clearance, but not always high psi. This creates less drag but lower pressure at an ideal then a stock set up. But then these engine will not last on the street for very long. Street rods go stock. drag engine normally never see the street. Oil Pressure pump system in all engines is the same as any hydraulic system, it is applying a pressurized oil barrier between the bearing and the journal surface trying to floot the crank journals away from the bearings. With out any oil pressure the journal surface is rubbing hard against the bearings.

whitehambone

What about using something like this:

http://www.pre-luber.com/index.htm
http://www.autoenginelube.com/
http://www.prelube.com/
http://www.motorprelube.com/

Any one using any of these products?

hghpwr

I would not let my new car go 13k without an oil change,but changing oil every 3k is a marketing tool used by oil companies to boost profit period.

My 4 gen t/a i changed the oil every 5-7k miles and after over 100,000 the top end looked very clean when i had it apart last yr.

You are free to do what you want .

2010_5thgen

finally getting my first oil change tomorrow. 5400 miles and 2 years later......

joe603

Every 3k is a bit much imo. This thing takes 8.6 qts of oil for each change! I'd hate to do that more often than is necessary...

What about oil filters? What are you guys running?

km9v

I did my first oil change on the SS at ~1000 mi. After that, when the oil life monitor reached 5 or 7%. Mobil 1 5w30.

JasonD

I use the K&N oil filter. Has a nice removal nut on the bottom, seems to have favorable reviews and is built like a tank.

Also, consider the Royal Purple oil filter. There used to be a very impressive video out there on YouTube showing how they are made, but I can no longer find it.

JasonD

AH! Found it. Don't ask me how, as it is unlisted for some dumb reason.

[autostream]http://autostream.com/camaroz28/?page_type=firebirdplayerthumbnail&framepage=1781& transactionid=1316796863-638515170&posted_by=JasonD_www.camaroz28.com&youtu be_video_id=K7UGmAEqwHI[/autostream]

Chewbacca

I have oil analyses results from my own car that says they're crap.

Perhaps they do flow better but I can tell you their filtration is garbage. An opinion I also hold with regard to their air"filters" (and also backed by oil analysis results on more than one of my personal cars over the years).

Oil filtration quality improved dramatically when I tried Mobil1 filters.

The filtration of ACDelco oil filters is also superior to that of the K&N (at least in my experience and my oil analysis results).

JasonD

Not really surprising. It seems that when it comes to things like this...some think they are great, some disagree.

I was considering trying the Royal Purple filter anyway.

Chewbacca

That's exactly why I look at the results from several used oil analyses.

I let the lab decide. Not personal opinion.

JasonD

What lab do you like to use?

Chewbacca

Blackstone

King Moose SS

These guys all pitched in and tried to find out themselves.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...-needed-5.html

I know they haven't finished yet, but they did find some crappy brands, and they found the Mobil 1 filter to be quite good. I'm still waiting for the article, but I doubt they'll ever get to it at the pace there going.

94Camaro_Z_28

Just to back this up, I used to be a manager at a dealership quicklube. Our markup on our Ultimate service (Mobil 1) was 53% for just the oil change. Add an air filter/cabin filter/ tire rotation into the mix, and that 75% was easy to achieve. They instructed us to tell any customer that asked about the oil life indicator that it wasn't right, and that it needed to be done every 3 to 5 thousand miles. Now, for those that don't trust it. Take into account that GM offers 100,000 mile warranties on their powertrains. They build millions of motors per year. We, as enthusiasts, have not spent billions on research, and we certainly don't build millions of motors per year. Like it or not, they know what they are doing, and they are smarter than most of us. The car will tell you when it needs it (obvious extreme conditions not withstanding). If you're changing it every 3,000 miles, you're actually hurting your motor more than the "dirty" oil is.