CGM2010CAMARO

So I was in my car today with a friend and tried to show off a little. I held the TC button for 10 seconds to disable it. I was stopped and then got the RPM's to roughly 3000. I released the clutch and started to go, when i went to go shift into 2nd, the clutch was stuck to the floor. I put the car in neutral, came to a stop and I had to use my hand to bring the clutch back to a usable position. I was able to make it back to work but the whole way there, the odor was horrible. Almost like bad brakes. My car sat for about 2 hours. I went to go home and from a stopping position, the car vibrates into first gear. The rest of the gears shift smooth. I put the car in 2nd from a stop and the same vibration is there. I feel that I have damaged something. I have an LS3 with a short throw and roughly 29,000 miles. Any ideas?

km9v

Get it to the dealer ASAP.

CGM2010CAMARO

Maybe I should have asked a better question. I would like to ulitmately upgrade my clutch but am wondering if I damaged something else where I may need to replace that part as well.

dookie454

Na you just killed the clutch.. the burning brakes is the clutch slipping.. its the same as a brake. but it shouldnt have done that. At most you will need new pressure plate/throwout assy but those are parts you would prob change anyway.

CGM2010CAMARO

Thanks for the advice. Yeah I dont understand why it did that. Maybe it's a trend to look out for as all of the camaros reach 30,000 miles.

dookie454

yes that's definitely disturbing, I also have a manual 6 speed and I read all kinds of stuff about the output shaft breaking when launching.

Dealer should cover it? The problem is, once they are deep into it.. and decide if warranty will cover it then it's kinda too late. And if you refuse to pay for the install (do it yourself), they will probably mess something up so you end up returning.

Same reason I never demand a new meal from a restaurant!

However, I have read something about beating on the newer 6 speeds (which heats up the clutch area) and the clutch pedal getting stuck to the floor. This makes me think your clutch slipped creating ALOT of heat, and somehow this heat expanding the fluid (or hopefully air) in your clutch hydraulics.. but this alone would not make the clutch go to the floor.. it should create more pressure against the pedal.. which maybe it did.. then it "gave out"?

On the 1998 and newer, (the LS1) (due to a huge cost save) they moved the "Slave cylinder" internal, located around the trans input shaft right behind (or part) of the throw out bearing which pushes in/out the pressure plate, engaging/disengaging the clutch. The pressure plate pushes directly against the slave cylinder, which on this car directly pushes on fluid.. then through a line to the master cylinder to the clutch pedal, and pushes it back up. So yes something is up here, but no not your fault. If it is heat.. then well that's a problem since the key component (slave cylinder) is right there next to the heat.

Everything pre-1998 (LT1's, etc) while they use the same exact transmission, the bellhousings are different and have the slave cylinder OUTSIDE of the trans, and use a lever/fulcrum to activate the clutch so they see little heat. The only thing that see's heat in the pre 1998's are a steel shaft and bearing... and you know when these parts fail! In 1998 they also included a restrictor plug that is suppose to lessen the instant response of the clutch and reduce harsh engagement and disengagement (reduce the harsh neutral slam or slamming gears, but also reduces clutch disengage time which causes problems for quick shifts) but all this really did was make the driver put more force on the shifter to get the clutch to respond/match RPM, and ended up bending shift forks and causing the trans to pop out of gear.

By chance could your trans/clutch area been extra hot from previous beating on's? This would make way more sense since hopefully this was caused by high temp, which is still a problem.