You might want to contact PAC at www.go2pac.com to see if they can help you. (incorrect statement edited out)

Good luck!

[This message has been edited by BandDirector Blk98ZM6 (edited July 10, 2002).]

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Originally posted by BandDirector Blk98ZM6:
..you can't just change HU's in a Bose system without a special adapter. Unfortunately, no one around here seems to know specifically what adapter is needed, and since I don't have a Bose system, I can't say either.

[This message has been edited by BandDirector Blk98ZM6 (edited July 10, 2002).]

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You do not have to have a special adaptor. The people that tell you that is either trying to get your money on something you don't need or they don't know any better. I'm an install at a car audio shop and we've put several aftermarket decks into cars with the bose system. One of those was mine. All you got to have is the standard GM wiring harness (Metra 70-1858). We sell it for $14.95. All you got to do is wire it up color to color and hook the remote turn on wire off the aftermarket deck to the solid blue wire on the wiring harness to turn the bose amps on. It works fine like that. The only problem with that is you get some background hiss and you have very limited volume control. Meaning that if your volume on your stereo goes to 80 and normally it will max out and distort around 70ish then if you got in with the bose system you will max out and begin to distort around 40ish. But the volume at 30 with the bose system will be like it would be normally at 65ish. I personally recommend replacing all the bose stuff with aftermarket equipment. But you can put a aftermarket deck in with the bose system without a "special" harness. You can't put aftermarket speakers in with the bose system cause the bose speakers are 1 ohm and most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm which would be very week in the bose system.

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95 Z28, A4, Green, T-Tops.
Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N CAI.

#3 Forever!!! God Bless You Dale!

Moderator at www.z28owners.net

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Originally posted by BandDirector Blk98ZM6:
...you do NOT need the PAC OEM-1. The OEM-1 is ONLY for people who want to KEEP their stock HU and then add aftermarket amp/speakers.

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I don't believe this is true. The ADD-GM21 harness is meant to be used with the OEM-1 when it is used to add an HU to a BOSE system. The ADD-GM21C is used to add an aftermarket amp/speakers to the Monsoon system.

Since the OEM-1 has output level controls it should also compensate for the volume setting problem mentioned above. The reason for the problem is that the signal from the HU is too strong without the level controls to tone it down a bit. That's why you reach maximum loudness so soon on the volume setting.

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Originally posted by LS1 RULZ:
I don't believe this is true. The ADD-GM21 harness is meant to be used with the OEM-1 when it is used to add an HU to a BOSE system. The ADD-GM21C is used to add an aftermarket amp/speakers to the Monsoon system.

Since the OEM-1 has output level controls it should also compensate for the volume setting problem mentioned above. The reason for the problem is that the signal from the HU is too strong without the level controls to tone it down a bit. That's why you reach maximum loudness so soon on the volume setting.

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I'll be damned! I stand corrected. I just double checked PAC's website. It does appear the ROEM-1 is for people who want to replace the HU in a Bose system and the ROEM is part of the OEM-1 line of products. It appears that the AOEM-1 is for people who want to keep their Bose amplifiers as well as add an aftermarket amp and the ROEM-1 is for people who simply want change Bose HU's, but keep Bose amps. However, I am correct that the OEM-1 is NOT necessary to replace the HU in a Monsoon system.

Shawnster95Z28, it does sound sound like you don't NEED a harness just to make it work, but after your description of the hiss and volume control problems, it seems to me that the reason you would be replacing the Bose HU is for better sound, and if you're adding hiss and volume control problems, that defeats the purpose of replacing the HU. If the OEM-1 solves those 2 problems, then I would think that the OEM-1 adapter would be the way to go then if the purpose of replacing your HU is to improve the stereo system.

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Originally posted by BandDirector Blk98ZM6:

Shawnster95Z28, it does sound sound like you don't NEED a harness just to make it work, but after your description of the hiss and volume control problems, it seems to me that the reason you would be replacing the Bose HU is for better sound, and if you're adding hiss and volume control problems, that defeats the purpose of replacing the HU. If the OEM-1 solves those 2 problems, then I would think that the OEM-1 adapter would be the way to go then if the purpose of replacing your HU is to improve the stereo system.

I don't own a Bose equipped F-Body, and never have, so I guess I just need to give up on giving out advice on which I know nothing about

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Most of the time when we do only change out the HU with an aftermarket one is when something happens to the Bose HU and they don't have the money to change out the speakers at the same time. You can also use RCA's coming off the aftermarket deck if and cut the other end off and hardwire it to the wiring harness to use the low level outputs of the stereo instead of the high level outputs. This will make it alot cleaner (no hissing) and will fix the volume control problem. But when you do that then you get the "turn off pop" from the Bose amps. I can't stand the pop so if you was going to do that I'd rather live with the hiss and limited volume control then listen to the "turn off pop". Of course the best was and I strongly suggest is don't bother with mixing aftermarket and Bose stuff, and just do a "Bose-sectomy" and replace everything with aftermarket equipment and be done with it. My thought on the Bose system is "No highs, no lows, it must be Bose!!"

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95 Z28, A4, Green, T-Tops.
Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N CAI.

#3 Forever!!! God Bless You Dale!

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Originally posted by Shawnster95Z28:
...I strongly suggest is don't bother with mixing aftermarket and Bose stuff, and just do a "Bose-ectomy" and replace everything with aftermarket equipment and be done with it.

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While I'll agree that replacing the entire setup is the way to go, if you're on a budget, just hooking up an aftermarket head unit with a $4 Wal-Mart GM wiring adapter harness does work.

Another thing to add is I have factory service manuals for the 94 and 96 F-Bodies. I don't see any speakers that are 1 ohm The speakers for the Firebird and Camaro systems are well above 1 ohm.

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Originally posted by Brent94Z:

Another thing to add is I have factory service manuals for the 94 and 96 F-Bodies. I don't see any speakers that are 1 ohm The speakers for the Firebird and Camaro systems are well above 1 ohm.

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The speakers with the Bose speakers are 1 ohm. The standard stock speakers with the standard stereo system is 4 ohm.

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95 Z28, A4, Green, T-Tops.
Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N CAI.

#3 Forever!!! God Bless You Dale!

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Originally posted by Shawnster95Z28:
The speakers with the Bose speakers are 1 ohm. The standard stock speakers with the standard stereo system is 4 ohm.

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my car had bose 5 speaker system with sub i dont know about the sub but everything else was 4 ohm